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MacKstar21

I recently made the same style! [Here I am applying the first coat of oil.](https://streamable.com/sp3a2g) It is actually amazing how much wood you go through for this pattern…


LaughterHandmade

Very nice! So true. So many off cuts went in the trash.


sneekyleshy

no such thing as wood trash, its called the "i know i have something that fits" bin


kfnsz

Tip I wish someone told me earlier: that'd be easier to apply using an old water bottle with a pop top. [You can also add mineral / methylated spirits](https://youtu.be/sOSUyTbk56Q) to lower viscosity and apply in thinner coats.


LandyachtzDH

That finish is half & half (50% pure tung oil and 50% citrus solvent) so it's already thinned quite a bit. u/MacKstar21 I just used the component versions of this finish on my workbench (50/50 for the first coat and pure tung oil for the following coats). Great stuff once it finally dries. Took mine close to a month to harden. You could probably stand to flood the surface a little more and really let that penetrate. I know it's expensive stuff, but don't be stingy ;)


MacKstar21

I love tung oil for how hard it cures, but it does take a long time. You’re also right about not being stingy - this was only one of about 10 applications over about a week until the board wasn’t taking any more.


LandyachtzDH

Interesting. I've only used it the one time, so still getting a feel for it. The application tips I had read said to use the 50/50 solvent mixture on the first coat and keep the surface wet for 15 minutes before wiping off. Subsequent coats were just the tung oil and applied much thinner. Probably different for a cutting board vs a workbench. How do you find it holds up on a cutting board over time with washing, knife marks, etc.? It seems like a better option than the mineral oil/beeswax blend I've used in the past.


gidikh

If you do a lot of boards it's just easier to have a bin full of oil you can just submerse them in and let it soak.


MacKstar21

That’s a great tip. I have a few water bottles sitting around, so I’m going to give that a shot.


Kaffikup

man I love this guy's channel. Its too much information for me to retain but I always learn something.


Ccanning1

I’m very new to woodworking and carpentry, can I ask what type of oil you used? I’ve heard several different answers for cutting boards and am interested in what you used


TheRavenZen

Not OP, but I use mineral oil on my boards. Tasteless/odorless, and it can be reapplied as needed.


LaughterHandmade

I use this[mineral oil](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNI1JI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8NVSGF0CMCSKYNTTC0C7). I put it in a bin and let my boards soak in it for a few minutes then wipe them off.


Sacred_Charge

also not op, but it looks to be from a company called Milk Paint


GLaDOS_Sympathizer

As others have said, mineral oil for stuff you are going to be eating with or eating off of. If it is not a food related project though then I am a big fan of Watco Danish Oil. Comes in a variety of colors but just the natural Watco Danish Oil makes the grain in wood show beautifully and protects quite well. (Just want to reiterate - No Watco for cutting boards!) For cutting boards there is also "butcher block oil" which i believe has bees wax in it.


squirrelbee

Nothing beats 3-5 applications of white mineral oil (cheaper that the pharmacy in the GI section than at a hardware store) giving at least 30 minutes inbetween applications and then finishing with 1-2 applications of 1:1 ratio of beeswax (not paraffin it has to be the real deal) melted into mineral oil (put the mineral oil in a sauce pan you don't care about over low heat and mix in the beeswax) weight is easier to measure than volume but it doesn't have to be exact.


MacKstar21

The beeswax approach is a really good one


Pelthail

I’m a simple man. I like Howard’s cutting board oil and their conditioner as well. On a new board I do 3 coats of the mineral oil and then one coat of the conditioner.


squirrelbee

The mineral oil in the laxative section of the pharmacy is exactly the same stuff and its a lot cheaper than howards. Then you can just mix in beeswax to make your own conditioner a 1:1 ratio works great.


MacKstar21

Any mineral oil labeled “food grade” or “for cutting boards” gets a bump in price but is exactly the same as the cheap stuff. Just a personal preference of mine, but I think tung oil provides a bit more durable of a finish once it is fully cured.


squirrelbee

I don't think you will run into any problems with tung but make sure its cured before you use it as it can be mildly toxic before it cures.


MacKstar21

Absolutely - it can take upwards of a month for a full cure. Once that happens though, it’s a really really nice finish


MacKstar21

This is a 50/50 mix of tung oil and a citrus based solvent as thinner. As you can see I have a pre-mixed version, but you can easily buy separate and mix yourself. Tung oil is food safe and cures to be quite hard, so I like to use that on cutting boards. The downside is it can take a very long time to cure - up several weeks / month depending on the size. As others have said, mineral oil is the most common and probably cheapest option, but my experience has seen tung oil provides a longer lasting and more durable finish.


Cilad

Did you see how much oil got sucked into the wood when you poured it? I would suggest put a glove on, soak the rag, and wipe. Or you will end up with different amounts of oil soaked into the wood. Just a suggestion. The board is so beautiful!!!!


MacKstar21

Yea, you have to be very diligent to make sure all the wood is saturated and not just parts. This was one of many applications until no parts would take any more.


emmakobs

so THAT'S how you do it


HurtlingThroughSpace

I feel stupid. I always wondered how to make this pattern.


ppngo

I don’t think you should feel stupid I think seeing this the first time a mind blowing revelation for everyone


parker1019

Suddenly have a craving to play Qbert…


gr3atch33s3

That’s sick dude. Nice work


LaughterHandmade

Thanks!


dtmi1212

I understand how to make 3D cutting boards, but I'm curious about your methods for 2D cutting boards. You must be really good with a hand plane!


glum_plum

Best I can do is 1 nanite thick


jostrons

Oh wow. I've seen many of these finished products and always through it was just a major glue up and clamping..never considered a flipped pattern like this


HaaaaaammmGurl

i dont see it. ​ i dont see it. ​ i dont see it. ​ omg i fucking see it.


LaughterHandmade

Haha yessss!


Aum14

Amazing woodwork and talent!


LaughterHandmade

Thanks!!


electric4568

Looks amazing !! Easy to do?


LaughterHandmade

If you can measure and cut very accurately, you can do this too!


spartacle

So not easy then.


LaughterHandmade

Hah, I bet you can do it.


Ycdtwbycats

That is flippin cool


melig1991

The best thing about this whole video is that you showed a still of the last shot for a couple seconds.


hopeful_shrug

Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaammmmmnnnn!


StinkyBalloon

would love to see the finished product


Sir-Ironshield

What glue do you use on chopping boards? The idea of accidentally poisoning myself has always put me off trying.


nsgiad

Gorilla Glue and Titebond are both fine, I'm sure there's others as well. That being said, you'd really have to fuck up to poison yourself with wood glue as there's so little exposed on the cutting surface.


LaughterHandmade

Very true. I use titebond III for cutting boards.


Sir-Ironshield

Thanks, I was more imagining something leeching out everytime I cook with it but I'm probably just paranoid.


Yolo-Toure

... you're not cooking your cutting boards are you?


Sir-Ironshield

How else do you get that rich rounded flavour if you don't boil the board in your stew?


IxJAXZxI

I use Titebond III for all my boards. Havent had a problem in the dozen or so I have made.


jford1906

Titebond II is specifically food safe


TheJonathanDavid

What tool are you using to surface the top after that final glue up?


LaughterHandmade

I made a home made jig for my router. The jig allows for my router to pass over the top of the board. I then have a flat bottom router bit that I use. If I get time later today, I’ll post a picture of the set up.


TheJonathanDavid

Thank you. I have a router sled setup, but it seems to pull the fibers out of the wood and leads to an insane amount of sanding time. Curious what bit you’re using also? I’m using a whiteside spoilboard bit


briballdo

I've only done a few, but if I remember correctly the speed of the router played an important role in getting the right surface finish before sanding. Can't remember if it was faster or slower tho... lol


TheJonathanDavid

Keep me posted. I just ripped my last end grain cutting board in half and ran it through the planer to fix what the router did. Smooth as a whistle now.


briballdo

No issues w/ the end grain going through the planer?


SgtEddieWinslow

So, just so I understand the process you used. Compared to seeing others who have made each individual piece, and then glued and clamp each "square" section on. Did you glue these up as edge grain, at a specific angle to matchup. And then flip them to end grain? Very curious on your processes, as this is a style of board I would love to make. Also excellent job. Looks great. Would love to see it finished after being oiled.


LaughterHandmade

You are correct. Except, there weren’t any angled glue ups. All edges were 90 degrees in glue ups. There were 2 glue ups before this final glue up and they were edge grain to edge grain. I then cut the boards into 2” strips, flipped each piece on edge, made a video, then glued up.


SgtEddieWinslow

So did you cut the two pieces at 30 degrees in each edge (guessing the angle). And then the other at 60 each side. Allowing them to line up the way they are?


LaughterHandmade

The first glue up is glueing 3 wide boards on top of each other. Maple, walnut, maple. Then, I made rip cuts 2”ish wide with the blade at an angle. So now I have long trapezoid shaped boards that have maple on top, walnut in the middle, and maple on bottom. I then rip cut the edges of the trapezoids to make it square again. I did the same process with the cherry instead of walnut. Now you have 90 degree angles you can glue together again. I hope that helps.


SgtEddieWinslow

Somewhat....haha. It's tough to explain all this. I have seen some websites and YouTube videos explaining this a while back in process. Just need to go back and watch to familiarize with it all. Thanks again for the help.


tikirafiki

Cutting board or Qbert field?


jimberly718

I'll take one, please!


LaughterHandmade

I might be interested in selling…


thanxladies

Wait...what....


[deleted]

Yeah cool work but upvoted for the song choice 👍🏼


LaughterHandmade

🤘


YourAmishNeighbor

Fuck this shit. Nice as fuck, man.


LaughterHandmade

Fuck yeah, thanks!


SpoiBoiBlue

Come to decide that the things that I tried were in my life just to get high on


sajsemegaloma

/r/oddlysatisfying


michaelyup

Love it


YoshPMi

Beautiful


toddsHASH

Just made my mind blow


HamBoneDuctTape

I wanna learn how to do this so bad, looks incredible


JD_Drums12

This looks awesome!


hawtdiggitydawgg

Is it wrong of me to say I kind of liked it more before you flipped them. Kind of an arrows patterns. Looks gorgeous either way!


Pelthail

What a stressful glue up that must be. Trying to make sure each piece is perfectly aligned.


relwoodwork

Thank you that is the best cutting board video I have ever seen!


GLaDOS_Sympathizer

This is so well done! What type of saw do you use to cut the individual diamond shapes?


LaughterHandmade

A dewalt table saw with the blade turned at an angle.


elleeott

How do you keep everything aligned and flat when gluing? I've only done a couple of boards, and it just seems to get more tedious the more complex the pattern, but maybe that's just me being super lazy...


LaughterHandmade

Cauls. When I did the glue up, I would align it perfectly, tighten the clamps just a little, do a check of alignment and make any small adjustments, tighten a little more, another check of alignment, and then a final tightening of the clamps. A glue up is never going to be 100% flat. You are always going to have to flatten some after a glue up.


MilkEggsSndFlour

I feel like challenging my depth perception, is not a feature that I would find useful in a cutting board.


JimmyHavok

Nice! The little cubes give a good grip on the meat so it doesn't slide around!


dkreidler

I wanna play Q-Bert on that!!


Piece73

Q*bert!


GerardDiedOfFlu

This is amazing!


juliajuana

That's beautiful! Is it functional, or just art? I would think most people wouldn't want to start chopping on it. But, it would be nice to have on a kitchen wall. What kind of wood is it? I think cutting boards are usually maple.


LaughterHandmade

Thanks! It will be used. Since it’s end grain, I could resurface it in the future without too much trouble. The woods are maple, walnut, and cherry.


chronic_mechatronic

r/oddlysatisfying


2canb1

I love 3D patterns— really nice job


Rock_My_SA

Nice work.


1crazymutha

Qbert vibes


mnl1121

Looks amazing, would definitely like to dry some day, but am I the only one that likes the before pattern more than the after?


SecondHandSock

u/savevideo


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LaughterHandmade

Well thanks. I take that as a compliment. Unless you are going to spam my video.


SecondHandSock

Just wanted it for future reference. Will definitely need to make this. Thank you!