The only thing I can think of is to go obvious and use an aluminium or plastic trim T-strip. At least it would stop crumbs etc getting in. You'd have to be one hell of an artist to fill that and 'lose' it in the surface.


Looks laminated from the picture so I personally wouldn't use glues. Maybe a plastic T-Moulding?


As others have mentioned it is quite impossible to make it appear natural or invisible. My advice would be to apply silicone sealant, the more or less transparent kind.


With kitchen worktops you normally get a compound to go in there that matches the worktop colour or is at least close. I don't really know what to suggest for that type of wood but i would assume IKEA would stock some sort of jointing compound for their kitchens? https://colorfill.co.uk/ this is what i used for mine but i built mine using grey worktops.


Not sure if you have access to the underside of this, but this could work. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/joint-connector-small-2-1-2-to-3-1-4


Ideally, you wouldn’t have a joint on a straight run section of worktop. But, it should have been biscuit jointed, glued and bolted together from underneath with colourfil put into the gap as the bolts where tightened. Anything you try at this stage will be very noticeable without doing as above.


This is the correct answer, but OP didn’t ask how to fill ‘properly’.


Correct answer, but probably not done this way because the hob would prevent the use of dogbone bolt (a joint shouldn’t be this close to any cut out). I would fudge a repair using dominos but you’d have to whip the top off and add a clamping brace on the underside to hold everything tight whilst the glue goes off.


Tspoon of floor 1 egg Splash of milk Cayenne pepper tt A bit of fish juice from a can that didnt want to open. Let if cure for a year before you clean it out.


I’d get a piece of stainless steel bent to wrap the front edge of the counter and have it be about 10 inches wide, butted up against the stove. Otherwise replace the countertop with one continuous piece.


I would use silicone.


I would not use caulking. I'd use a joint connector, as linked below to pull it tight, then mask it off and pour a joint of clear epoxy. Might crack eventually, but should be easy to repair and won't accumulate gunk and is easier to clean than caulking.


Wood filler


First you take a chunk of uncooked ramen...