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1000111010_1

Looks like you need a bump box to start it. First things first I would pull the motor out completely. Blow it off with air and use a toothbrush to get any gunk off of it. Next I would pull the cooling head off and look inside at the piston if it's not all rusty and crusty see if you can spin it over. If it looks good I'd put some after run oil in it and coat the inside. Then put the motor back in set the gear mesh. Then look up the factory needle settings for carb and set to what's given. After that you'll want a temp gun to help with tuning it. Read up on running before you go crazy changing settings so you understand what you can change and what effects it can have so you don't mess it up right away. Once you feel confident go play and enjoy. Run it out of fuel completely when you've finished pull the glow plug and put after run oil in and spin motor over to coat the piston and sleeve.


graydog_97

Thanks so much! I’ll definitely try that out. I have one of those old pink Onya starters, will that work?


1000111010_1

If it still works when attached to the battery ya that should be good. If you used it before for it hopefully the set pins didn't move so you can just set it bump it and it'll go.


graydog_97

Awesome, thanks. Also I found another one of my old cars in the attic, it’s a Kyosho USA-1, it’s the original one but electric. The controller battery holder broke so I can’t test it, but is it worth repairing you think? I don’t know if it’s anything special


1000111010_1

The original ones might be worth some money. I honestly don't know much about what the old rc cars are worth


mini-z1994

Probably better off selling the usa-1, quite fragile truck at the time on some chassis & steering parts. If it's whole besides the controller battery holder you are probably looking at 400$ right away if the body is in good condition & all the detailing is still included & the paint is good on it. As well as the wheels & tires are good & not completely destroyed from sitting. One built out of new old stock parts with an unpainted body. (Which probably took like 3 - 5 years minimum collecting all the parts.) Sold for over 1000$


1000111010_1

Also I don't notice in your picture butt do you have a working glow heater


graydog_97

Yep I do


TKK2019

Upvote for the time you took to help the guy and give a well thought out response. I don’t know if it’s all correct as I’m out of the hobby but great to see helpful people


Iwillnotbeokay

This guy nitros.


1000111010_1

It's been years since I've had nitro. Still have an old savage x but just use my electric anymore.


Iwillnotbeokay

Same, last nitro I ran was an original TMAXX when it first came out. Some things you just don’t forget!


CYOAenjoyer

The carb mention got me thinking: are there fuel injected RC motors?


BrokenAlfaRomeo

Yes Nitro boss!


xdjfrick

That’s a legendary rc truck by the way. What would you like help with ? I would say this isn’t the truck to learn on , that motor probably needs serious work unless it was very carefully and properly stored.


graydog_97

It’s just been sitting in a cabinet. I’d thought about buying a new motor with a pull starter for around $40, it would save me a lot of trouble. I just want to get it running and have a decent rc car again, since currently all of my non-Walmart cars are broken, so I’ve been using one of those $30 drift cars lately lol


lastpally

That OS is very good. I would definitely work on it instead of throwing in some cheap engine.


xdjfrick

This is a tough one man , those trucks are desired by collectors and worth money it deserves a proper restoration not done on the cheap. Plus it sounds like it has sentimental value. I wouldn’t put a cheap motor in it.


graydog_97

Any suggestions on where to start? Like I mentioned I have absolutely no idea what to do at this point because it’s been so long lol


xdjfrick

Everything starts with research here is the link to the manual https://img2.associatedelectrics.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10GT/Team_Built/tbgt_manual.pdf I also sent a link to a video about the truck


xdjfrick

Is the hardware (screws) on that one Philips head? Or hex ?


rustyxj

If you know absolutely nothing about carburetors or nitro tuning in general. [JQ does a fantastic video. ](https://youtu.be/zLqwj41Q2YQ) If you're already familiar, he does a shorter video.


rustyxj

>those trucks are desired by collectors Kinda >and worth money Just not allot of money. They made them for a decade almost unchanged. If it runs, I'd say it would be worth between $100-200 if you found the right buyer.


xdjfrick

Start here and learn about you got. https://youtu.be/uABXllr04OM


rparsel

I hope your fuel is not 15 yrs old.


looper741

This needs to be higher up. Lots of good advice in this thread, but no one has mentioned yet to make sure to use fresh fuel. It will not run on old fuel.


graydog_97

2 years old, and it’s almost none in there thankfully


rustyxj

Depends on how it was stored. In an air right/uv free environment, I'd run 15 year old fuel no problem.


DefiantAbalone1

That engine is an O.S. CV15. Google the engine with keywords "manual" or how to tune/start/ maintain/ break in etc and you'll easily find everything you need, including parts. Also get a bumper starter box, it'll make your life much easier. Nitro glow engines are much more finicky than gasoline, and the ideal carb settings will change depending on the temps and weather. With a pull start, some days will chew up your fingers while trying to find the proper carb setting.


rustyxj

>That engine is an O.S. CV15. It's a OS MAX CV, it could be a .12 or .15, I have them in both flavors. [the specs/manual for the .12 ](https://www.os-engines.co.jp/english/line_up/engine/car/catalog/11241.htm) [the specs/manual for the .15](https://www.os-engines.co.jp/english/line_up/engine/car/catalog/11522.htm) Unfortunately, pretty much all the hard parts have been dis continued. O-rings, seals, and glow plugs are still available. The piston, sleeve, and connecting rod aren't(it's a bummer, my .15 is low on compression.


SaveTheEngineers

I restored an rc10gt2 recently with a bunch of wd40 and compressed air. It’s great for cleaning just about everything on the truck and the engine, that and nitro fuel. Before you do anything absolutely make sure the tank is clean (consider replacing if not), replace all the lines and make sure the air filter isn’t falling apart and is functional. I bet it starts right up!


mrsebe

Other comments have been helpful, I just wanted to add that nitro rc cars can be an absolute bitch sometimes, but man when you get them running smooth they are a blast


dust_my_wets

2 stroke nitro motor should be dead simple to get running. Probably best to clean the engine thouroughly as well as the carb. An ultra sonic cleaner is your friend and ATF makes a great cleaner and lubricant while you assemble. When I shelf my nitros I shoot some atf in the glow plug ports for corrosion control and keeping everything lubricated. Reassembled and set to put of the box mixture that engine should run


Ravenswar420

Hybrid32494 check him out on Youtube


Hairbear2176

I have a few of those radio systems. They can be a pain in the ass to set up and tune well, but they work great once you figure out the quirks. Here is the radio link: [https://www.nitrorcx.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html](https://www.nitrorcx.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html) Here is the manual to it: [https://p11.secure.hostingprod.com/@site.hobbypartz.com/ssl/webfolder/nitrorcx/FS-GT3B-Manual.pdf](https://p11.secure.hostingprod.com/@site.hobbypartz.com/ssl/webfolder/nitrorcx/FS-GT3B-Manual.pdf)


RickRussellTX

All the usual engine rules apply: fuel, air, spark (or in this case, glow). If you have all those, then look for mechanical issues with the engine -- bad bearings, things that don't move smoothly, corrosion, etc.


Old_Man_Grumps

How much fun! Rebuild engine, double check then triple check. Batteries (new) and electronics (upgrade if it sat that long)…while the power plant is out, see how it rolls, it its clunky, rebuild it anew with new bearings and then PRAY


rustyxj

>Rebuild engine Replace engine, it'll cost more in parts(if you can find them) rather than replace with a new SH .12


Old_Man_Grumps

If hes been out of commish that long, rebuild the old engine before tooling on a new one


rustyxj

Parts for those are made of unobtainium.


Old_Man_Grumps

Im lazy. Rebuild=dismantle, inspect, reassemble, dry run (thats a really old engine, but replaceable if need be, cost efficiency is a good thing unless u like antiques) depending on what i find determines the next step in the process


CL-MotoTech

I’ll be surprised if it isn’t seized up. You need to see if the crank will turn. Nitro engines don’t last long even when properly pickled.


hypsterslayer

YouTube it


Canebrake247

I had one of these growing up. Took a long time to get the ins and outs. Best advice I can give you is if it seems like it wants to start and kicks over but dies fast, especially when you pull off the coil heater get a glow plug with a thicker wire. I had to bump mine up and once I did it was much more rpm stable and much harder to kill the engine. Also, check tubing to make sure it doesn't have holes or cracks. It is very easy for the tank seals or tubing to leak, and if they do you will never dial in air to fuel, or the fuel will never feed in in the first place. If you aren't actually racing I'd remove the air restrictor too. Runs much better without the restrictor ring. Adjust air to fuel in 1/8th turn increments and write that shit down! Once you know how far from the stop is your golden zone you will kick yourself if you ever lose it. Too lean and it will get hot very quickly and rev even without applying acceleration. Too rich and it will be sluggish. Best to start rich and dial it towards lean until you find a spot where there's plenty of power but you aren't cooking the engine. When you're done running it tip it over on its side and make sure the tuned pipe isn't full of oil from the fuel, it's pre mixed, and the oil doesn't all burn off. Gets really messy really quick if you toss it back in the box and it gets tipped and leaks. Best of luck to you. It's a hell of a good time once you get it in ship shape. Took me about a week of running it daily to dial it in, even with prior carb experience. Don't get frustrated, it isn't just you. They take some love and care before they rip. Take her off some jumps for me! -Cane EDIT: I see your restrictor ring is already gone and your tuned pipe has been rotated to point down, so ignore those parts. Leaving them in for reference for those who find stock rc-10s. I would recommend against running the ribbed tires on paved surfaces. They will be bald very soon. They work great for sand or dirt though. Get an air filter before you run it. Dirt will kill that engine super duper fast with the high rpms you'll see once it's tuned.


AstuteForces

Toss it up on Ebay where they go for a dime a dozen. Buy the electric version with the proceeds. Brushless is KING baby!!