You have spider mites. There a few things you can do. You can get some diatomaceous earth and dust the plant with it. You can get some need oil and spray that with it. You can make a homemade spray with mild dish soap and water mixed at 1-2 tbsp/litre of water. Make sure it's a mild soap like original dawn. Also using a strong stream of water blast them off. Not too strong that you damage the plant though. In the future to help prevent keep some dill weed around and condition your soil with diatomaceous earth. Foliar spray once a week with essential oils.


Thanks a lot for the tips! I‘m going to try them out and report back in a few weeks with a hopefully better plant :-)


You'll have better luck looking for -neem- oil


No need for neem here … just wipe leaves (top and bottom sides) with mild soap 3 times a week for 2 weeks and it likely be fine. If you have a lot of other plants infected then go for the neem. One small plant is easy to treat


Agreed, neem oil isnt really the most effective. Ive never had luck with it. And wiping them should be easy enough since theres so few leaves


The neem oil we can normally buy is an "extract of neem oil" and doesn't contain azadirachtin - which makes it useless.


Yeah, you have spider mites, but that's not the only issue. See how the older leaves are dark green and the new ones chlorotic, or yellowed? You probably have a nutrition issue. Possibly zinc or iron. Also, that pot needs to be upsized and ensure it has drainage so excess water can flow through. Since a lemon tree will eventually need a fairly large pot, I would move to at least a one-gallon for now. Mix a slow release fertilizer into the soil mix (some potting soil has this already). The plant is so tiny, you can physically remove the spider mites by wiping/spraying with a mild soapy water mix. If you have other plants, be sure to inspect/treat them, too. To inspect for mites, shake the plant over a white piece of paper and inspect for moving specks.


I disagree with a lot of this. The color loss could be from the pests. Always deal with pests before diagnosing anything else. Also putting that small of a plant in a 1 gallon pot will cause it to be constantly wet and grow mold. I wouldn't put it in a 1 gallon pot until it's around a foot tall. I do agree that little pot is silly. I'd put it in a 4-inch pot with good drainage ar the bottom. Edited 7 inch to 4 inch.


That's an interesting perspective, but as someone with a degree in agricultural pest management who has worked as a horticulturist for a major university, I want to expand on the areas where we disagree. The first step in integrated pest management is maintaining healthy plants. Plants that have their physiological needs met have much more ability to fight or withstand pests. In OP's case, there's no reason spider mites can't be controlled in concert with better cultural practices. In a pot with appropriate drainage, soil moisture is managed through the water holding capacity of the soil and the irrigation frequency, not the size of the container. When one leaf of the plant is larger than the diameter of the pot, it is inadequate root space. If the pot has inadequate drainage, that can cause chlorosis, too. Color loss does occur from spider mites, but it is a stippling effect, as the mites damage one leaf cell at a time. There is certainly going to be some of that, but it is unlikely the cause of the uniform chlorosis. While I'm not a citrus expert, I have worked in places where citrus actually grows and I assure you these plants are notorious for micronutrient deficiencies. Sine OP is a novice, it's much easier to integrate some slow-release fertilizer pearls into the potting soil than to try to microdose specific nutrients.


How dare you come in here with expert credentials! Is it your first day on the internet? Clearly you should have been assigned to economics or structural engineering comments.


And the person who this PhD fella is dissing is ‘optimoprimo’. Nothing to sneeze at.


Lol, I know you're kidding but to be fair I do have my own professional credentials that I didn't feel the need to flex and I have been the mod of /r/indoorgarden for over 10 years :P So I feel like I do know a thing or two, but I'm always open to learning.


My new friend, I just want to DM you all my plant issues! Great info


Thanks for sharing your credentials but they dont toally apply here. This post is really more appropriate for /r/houseplants for that matter. Potted plants have much different environments, needs, and conditions than agricultural crops. Having a degree in agricultural pest management may not have taught you that. Potted plants are always somewhat stressed and more susceptible to pests than plants in the ground. They don't need to have nutrient deficiencies to get infested with pests and often these infestations will cause or exacerbate issues and cause discoloration of leaves.


"Agriculture" includes plants grown in controlled conditions. Part of my experience has been in containerized greenhouse production, both for commercial production and research. I've worked with containerized food and ornamental plants, including commercial cut flowers. My role with the university was as an urban horticulturist and I've consulted with thousands of clients on a wide variety of plants, indoors and out. My professional experience spans more than 35 years. I admit to having zero personal experience growing citrus in a pot inside a home (though I have a dwarf lemon outdoors in a 20 gallon container). When there are differences of opinion, OP deserves a little insight to the people giving it. I appreciate you've been a mod on a hort sub and I'm not here to diminish your experience, only to offer and qualify mine. I'm not here to flex, but I do feel it's relevant to establish credibility. You start by saying you "disagree with a lot of this," but then in various posts agree with the spider mite control strategy, up-sizing the pot and using a synthetic fertilizer. The only disagreement is that you prefer a 7" diameter pot to my recommendation of one-gallon capacity. Again, the field capacity of soil is the same per cubic inch no matter how much soil is in the pot. Most fungi that grow in potting soil are the result of saprophytes working to decompose excess organic matter. Oversaturated containers are caused by: 1) inadequate drainage, including; 2) allowing a saucer under the container to hold standing water; 3) using a soil with excess water holding capacity; and 4) excessive frequency of irrigation.


Yeah I appreciate you sharing your background. It's just a common habit on Reddit to share credentials as a replacement for a good argument, so I tend to get defensive when posters lean on their credentials instead of their evidence. I'm not saying you are committing this, but just as a background for my initial reaction that was probably a mistake so I apologize for that. What I love about these hobby subs is we all agree on a mutual passion. In person we could have a fun discussion about this and share our personal knowledge and experiences over coffee. I do think we still disagree in a way that's not being addressed. Originally, you posted because you're telling OP they have more than a spider mite issue. You told them they have a nutrient deficiency. I disagree with that and it was the main reason I chimed in. I'm not saying there absolutely isn't a deficiency, but from this photo, you can't be sure. With your experience, I'm sure you've seen the impact of a severe mite or scale infestation in potted plants. The plant can be well fertilized, properly watered, and still show yellowing or malformed new growth as a result of the pest. Scale can cause new growth to look like a calcium deficiency. And the plants can be stressed solely from being indoors in a pot and nothing else, for the reasons I cited in my other comment. So the primary objective is pest removal before diagnosing anything else. I just see a common issue among housplant enthusiasts of trying to fix too much too fast and they end up killing the plants. With the pot thing I also still argue that oversizing a pot is introducing the possibility of root rot and mold/mildew growth as a result of prolonged wetness. You're right about reasons for over saturation. A large pot of watered soil indoors will smell like an old wet towel after a month. It won't dry quickly. And it will cause heavy mineral deposits more quickly.. It's useful and practical to properly size your pot to the size of your plant. And a plant with 4 leaves on it should not go in a gallon pot. I said 7 inches off the cuff and now that I think about it I probably should have said more like 4.


When you say that potted plants have much different environments needs, and conditions, what do you mean? Specifically in this case? This person gave good, solid advice in this case, to treat nutrient deficiencies, up pot, and to take care of the pest issue. How would you specifically treat a potted plant different than a ground plant if it had spider mites? How would you specifically treat a potted plant different than a ground plant if it had a nitrogen deficiency? How would you specifically treat a potted plant differently than a ground plant to deal with a potassium deficiency?


Sure I'm happy to get into it. I just didn't want to write a book if it wasn't warranted. My point was that the good solid advice isn't actually all that great because it's based on incorrect assumptions and some unaccounted outcomes. The reply to my feedback, which I feel was respectful, was a list of credentials and examples that apply to agricultural practices but not potted plants. It's a disagreement, so if I'm wrong I'm happy to hear why I'm wrong. Potted plants have very different considerations from plants in the ground because they do not receive the same benefits from interactions with [mycorrhizal networks](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mycorrhizal_network) and [microbes in the soil](https://microbiomejournal.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s40168-018-0445-0) due to the isolation of the potted soil from the natural environment, the artificial control of the potted soil from insects, and the restrictions of the root network within the pot. You can definitely manage potted soil to encourage these interactions, but it will never be to the degree found in nature. Potted plants receive much less of a natural [diurnal cyc](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diurnal_cycle)le due to artificial lights in the home. Potted plants are often not provided their ideal humidity and temperature requirements either, due to the climate control of the home. Again, you can provide these conditions artificially, but they will never be whats found in nature outside of maybe commercial growing operations that keep the plants in special greenhouses. These are the reasons that potted plants are always in, at least to a minor degree, some amount of additional "stress" compared to their outdoor counterparts. This reduces the relevancy of the "standard model" of pest control in crops, which is the idea that a healthy plant should have a healthy immune system and therefore pests are always a secondary product of some other issue the plant is dealing with, such as a nutrient imbalance. This is also why potted plants have their [own category of diseases that you barely if ever see in ground plants crops,](https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/houseplant-diseases-disorders/) such as root rot. The prevailing strategy for pest and disease prevention is therefore sterilization, i.e. elimination of all pests and prevention of new pests/diseases from making contact with the plant. Houseplants are "bubble boys." This strategy is difficult or impossible to employ with outdoor plants, since they are exposed to the environment, so you opt for the healthy immune system model. I just wanted to share that background before answering your questions: \-I never said the houseplant treatment for spidermites should be treated differently, necessarily. I said the root cause is not necessarily due to a nutrient deficiency. Simple rinsing and dishsoap treatment should be plenty for this tiny plant. \-I never said anything about supplementing nutrients differently, although you do supplement differently. Potted plants should always be provided some type of inorganic fertilizer to prevent introduction of pathogens, to encourage the "sterile environment" model of houseplant care. The best way to supplement nutrients to outdoor plants is with organic compost. Inorganic fertilizer is actually a terrible method for fertilizing outdoor plants. We do it on a commercial level because it's cheap and easy. But it's not the best thing for the crops or the environment. \-One of my only two points hasn't been addressed yet. Which is putting that tiny plant in a 1 gallon pot. That's terrible advice because 1 gallon of soil will stay wet for weeks or months, and deposit huge amounts of minerals into the soil, since this tiny plant will not draw up much moisture. So for a long time the soil will be relying on evaporation to dry the soil, which is slow and deposits large amounts of minerals in the process. The minerals will alkalize the soil, and the constant moisture will grow fungus and encourage root rot. This is another condition unique to potted houseplants that do not have an analogue in the ground. I agree with the uppotting but 1 gallon is way too large. I'd do a 4 inch pot.


A 1 gallon nursery pot is about 7” in diameter, so practically speaking it’s the same thing.


Yeah you're right I should have said a 4 inch pot. I screwed up translating the sizing to the volume.


What is good for solving those deficiencys? I have a lime tree that was growing like a madman and had nice dark green leaves. Then it just kinda stopped growing new leaves and the bottom leaves are yellow


When the oldest leaves are more yellow than the newest leaves, that's most commonly nitrogen deficiency. Other conditions could cause that, but you won't do any harm by applying a low-potency nitrogen fertilizer to see if it responds. I'm assuming you're somewhere that it's the active growing season?


I got rid of spider mites by using rubbing alcohol diluted with water and spraying almost everyday for several months. It has definitely been a process but it worked. It did not hurt the plant. The leaves are all green now! They were yellowing when it has the mites too. Also, I used a baby bottle cleaning brush to wipe off the leaves and trunk to remove the webs and white stuff from the mites webs after I sprayed them with the rubbing alcohol and water mix. It was 60/40 water/rubbing alcohol or something like that. I cleaned them everyday or every other day.


Yes, alcohol works, too. I usually recommend diluted soapy water because it is less likely to take the waxy cuticle off sensitive plants.


Would it be better to deal with knocking the mites down before transplanting as to mitigate the stress?


I don't think the mite treatment is very consequential in terms of stress. Wiping the leaves gently with a cotton ball with alcohol or soapy water. I would do both on the same day, then proceed to do follow up on the mites. Plants are pretty resilient. My dwarf orange tree came out of my neighbor's trash pile, had no soil on the roots and had been laying in the Las Vegas sun for two days. That was 8 years ago.


This is true, they are resilient. I usually wait until the bugs are somewhat controlled. I’ve seen some pretty mitey plants that needed to get their health up before transplanting. The really infested ones slow down a lot. Additionally, I was working in a commercial environment and it seemed like handling infested plants in the transplanting area would spread the infestation.


For sure. I am certain you will get them little buggers off it. Once you do come with a good IPM prevention plan to keep them off. It will seem easy with this little plant. When that thing gets to be 6 ft tall and 6 ft around if it gets infested like that it's a whole different struggle trust me.


Just buy a biological spray somewhere against them they are the biggest Pest you can imagine and open the window regulary the want it warm and dry


I've had them before on plants and I hear neem oil works great but using a mix of watee,water, soap and olive oil solved it for me pretty much immediately.


There’s an organic neem oil 3 in 1 that I loooove using on all my plants for mites, pests, or fungal infections.


We always used dawn dishsoap for mites. Works well and something that most people have anyway.


Hey! Stupid question- when you say dill weed- do you just mean the dill plant that is a herb? Or is it different


Ya the dill plant. It's called companion planting. Here's a linkof about 20 different companion plants many for pest management. https://bustlingnest.com/companion-plants-for-pest-control/


FYI: This list includes tansy. Do not plant tansy, it is extremely toxic. It's prohibited in some places and listed as invasive. Where I grew up, there is tansy pulling season. It will kill animals.


Never knew that. Never even heard of that plant. I must have skipped over it or just completely and ignorantly ignored it all together. Thanks for that piece of knowledge. I appreciate ya.


Great tips - I have this issue constantly so will try this out next season!


For sure. I love companion plants. I posted a link for someone on companion plants for pests. Check it out. Great things.


people like you are why i follow this sub - thank so much!


The best thing to do for spider mites is to call in a Naplam strike on your own LZ. Burn your entire neighborhood to the ground with extreme prejudice! But seriously, those things are difficult to get rid of and they will spread to other plants. I quarantine the plant, spray it with insecticidal soap, wait three weeks, spray it again (to get any mites that hatched), and repeat a third time. I put my lemon tree inside during the winter because it cannot handle the winter weather here. Inevitably, it gets infested with those damned things. :/


I've been wondering why neem oil is considered to be ok by people who won't use pesticides. It contains active ingredients like azadirachtin, nimbin, picrin, and sialin. Azadirachtin, a complex tetranortriterpenoid, is implicated in causing the effects seen in neem oil poisoning. In children, neem oil is reported to cause toxic encephalopathy and Reye's–like syndrome.


Well sir Neem oil is a natural product. From neem seeds. It's not chemically made by man. So organic growers use it as it doesn't compromise the integrity of growing organically. I wouldn't recommend it on fruiting parts that you are going to eat. But that plant is far from fruiting yet.


That neatly illustrates the absurdity of the organic growers' position.


So whats the solution for this problem and many other problems (pest related)? Should one not get rid of pests? I understand Organic means use of natural products to help plant grow disease free and yield naturally not enhanced with harmones n chemicals. I am not a fan of neem oil myself as its less efficient and a little more will damage the plant. I get your point end of the day its a pesticide or it is used as a pesticide, so the claim of being pesticide free is lost. But dont we use composts n manures for having the same effect (milder) as chemical fertilizers? I often walk around in the green patches of my city, a closer look at the plants n trees in the wild shows so much pest infestation n damage. Believe me you wont be able to eat a wild carrot if you could find one. which is truly organic.


This is kind of a tangent, but wild carrots are the absolute last food I'd recommend for an inexperienced forager to harvest. There are multiple extremely poisonous close lookalikes.


In my completely honest opinion, "organic" barely ever actually is what is implied ("better"), so everything that's touted as "organic" is a bigger or smaller victim of marketing.


I garden alot of different plants. Vegetables, fruits, medicinal and I can 100% say that a truly organic grown fruit or vegetable or medicinal flower definitely has more flavour than synthetic grown. I also do not understand why it costs so much more for organic produce when in actuality it is cheaper than growing synthetically.


Growing large quantities of anything without fertilizer, herb and pesticides is not cheaper, and you get less out of it. There’s a reason they exist. Things labeled organic are pricey because it’s harder to process everything, and because there’s less of it. I agree all the way things grown at home are better, but you aren’t going to stock your local grocery with what you grown organically. People freak out when chemicals get involved, but like it’s all chemicals. Natural or not. The ones not found in nature are certainly worrying, exist in places they should not! But seriously, wash you shit whether it’s organic or not lol.


Organic gardening absolutely still uses fertilizers and has herbicide and pesticide management, it is just not using the same types as a lot of conventional farming. Regenerative agriculture is also getting pushed into conventional ag now with recommendations of no till crops. Spreading organic animal manure, using cover crops and crop rotation, not tilling soil, building soil with organic material etc...all provide lower maintenance, cheaper methods of producing plants that require less water. We complain due to less crop production, but 1/3 of produce gets thrown away anyway so producing less doesn't really seem like such a big deal?


I hear ya.


I think that there's a difference - there's things grown as "organic" and sold things labelled "organic", two related but different things. I mean, in stores I've seen organic salt. Organic. Salt.


We had a grocery store (large chain) advertising their organic water. Worth spending a little extra for don't you think :-P


Yes me too. That all comes down to how the salt was sourced and refined. I get it though all salt is organic. But if it's processed with chemicals then it's no longer organic


...Buddy, that's nonsense and you are one of those people who do not understand what is "organic" and have fallen for the marketing tricks. Salt is a mineral and it's not "processed with chemicals", hence why "organic salt" is an absolute marketing trick. Here's a small overview of how salt is mined: [https://saltassociation.co.uk/education/make-salt/](https://saltassociation.co.uk/education/make-salt/)


Oh I understand organic sister. Maybe you don't have a grasp on how many different types of salt are out there. That article only mentions 2 different salt sources. Sea water and underground mining. Salt can come out of/extracted from many different sources not just sea water and underground mining. Same as sugar it doesn't just come from cane.


All salt is inorganic. It contains no carbon. It's also not an agricultural product, and it therefore doesn't meet qualifications for being certified organic. Literally nothing about salt can be organic.


Any one can throw the word "organic" or "natural" on a label, it means nothing. You have to see if it is USDA certified Organic. The USDA will not certify a mineral, of course. If people don't know the difference between certified organic and organic used in marketing then I feel it's their own fault? Maybe I am being negative.


I suppose if that's the IPM the organic grower chooses. I grow organic and have never used it. I usually use Diatomaceous earth and if I get a break out I use the dish soap and water. But I use organic Castille dish soap instead of something ĺike dawn.


So hey, are Castile and diatomaceous earth bad for other bugs? Like predatory insects? Got any useful links for study? Not a challenge, serious question.


Yes they can also eradicate predatory mites and things as well. On that note it's easy to replenish those predatory bugs with a top dressing of manure, worm castings or by brewing a compost tea. So yes they will kill good ones too. But the good ones you can get back.




Why? Can you use pesticides where you can't use neem oil?


You can use pesticides anytime you want to. You just can't call it organic grown anymore if you do.


Well then what's the point of shitting on Neem oil because it can't be used in the same places as chemical pesticides? No one ever said you can eat Neem oil.


Do you read things before you post. I told OP to use neem oil.


You answered a question I asked someone else. Did you read that? He was shitting on organics as if chemical pesticides were somehow better. Hence my question.


To be fair, in the US there is very little regulation when things are labeled “organic”. They’re only requirement really is to not use man made pesticides. So technically, just cause it’s organic, it can still use natural pesticides like neem oil.


What about hydrogen peroxide? It oxidates things leaving plain water, or am i wrong?


Organic Chemistry


The active chemicals are inert and non toxic after a given time and totally safe to eat after washing your veggies. Now when applying these chemicals you are gonna need full protection though and you should avoid them for a certain amount of time. Organic pesticides are often not safe when spraying but they are often far better to the environment you are spraying in. Though some are broad spectrum and will kill your beneficials do your research. I personal love biofungicides which I find extremely effective and love the products at Bioworks. I’m a professional grower and I will not use most conventional products as they are so bad for your growing environment and you personally. Some organic options are also extremely toxic too I.e anything copper … please don’t use copper powders.


I use it because it's not supposed to bother the predatory insects.


Did you mean "neem oil"? I use neem oil for those buggers, and it works good


Silly question - would sprinkling dill in the soil help?


That I couldn't answer. Usually companion plants work when they are grown in conjuction with your crop plant. Or the oils are extracted and mixed into a foliar spray.


Thanks! Think I will give it a try, can’t hurt




I read homicide spray.. guess it still applies lol 😂


🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 LOVE IT. Murder those little bastards!!!!!


I don't know how relevant my input is but I used a spay containing 0.015g/L of abamectin and 0.02g/L pyrethrin which worked wonders on my citruses and mango trees.


~~need~~ neem oil


Thanks bot


For another “natural” solution for small scale gardening I recommend boiling some orange peels, take the water and spray your plants with it. Allegedly the limonene keeps critters at bay. It’s worked miracles on *my* plants, so take my anecdotal experience with a grain of salt!


Limonene is really great pest deterent. This is why people use citronella. It's chalked full of limonene.


They're so noticeable once they've spite you once.... 🥲


This is great advice! If I may add one thing, on soap, rather than dish soap, I use Dr Bronners hemp based natural soaps. It comes in a wide variety of scents, but for plants, mites, aphids, I use the unscented one. Example link below. A bottle lasts years. Just a capful in a squirt bottle. With herbs, like basil, lettuces, you can then just give em a nice rinse and serve. https://www.drbronner.com/products/baby-unscented-pure-castile-liquid-soap


Neem not need.


I like 70% Neem oil, Monterey makes a good one. Also I’d rotate in some pyrethrum and green clean.


At first glance, I'd say it still needs a bigger pot and what you have it in, and it looks like it's infested with spider mites which are going to suck all the juices out of it and leave it to wither and die.


Spidermites. Also I sure hope that your fancy pot (which will soon be too small) has a drainage hole.


Thank you very much. I‘m going to repot it too.


lemon trees ESPECIALLY need good drainage. have tried growing them myself and apparently the #1 thing u need to worry about is not overwatering.


They're dramatic as hell. "Goodbye cruel world, I am dying of thirst. The end is surely near" and then you give them a thimble full of water "J/K, back at full strength now"


Yep, when in doubt wait for the tree to wilt before watering.


I have no drain holes in any of my plant pots haha.


Unless you use them as cache pots, then that's a huge risk of root rot and poor plant health in general (due to possibly anaerobic conditions at the bottom of the pot).


Yeah I know you are right. But i don't like dishes under my pots, and so far I'm keeping them alive some for over 3 years now.


Try a cache pot set-up, like orchids are frequently grown? Basically the plant itself is planted into a plastic pot with drainage which is then put into a pretty pot without drainage - the plastic pot can be lifted out and the cache pot drained after waterings (if needed).


Small pot small plant 🌱 Big pot big plant 🪴


Yes they are red spider mites and happen a lot during the winter months, hot, dry, and air circulation. Some plants are a natural at getting them, but over crowding doesn't help either. I use soapy dish soap, spay and let dry, then wash them off in the shower, I have lots of plants and it takes all week....mealy bugs, aphids, and red spider mites, my friends always coming over unannounced....be careful of getting new plants, isolate them a bit....


You have a pest, but it also already needs a bigger pot. Rule of thumb, the root ball needs to be as many inches wide as the plant is tall and it needs room to grow and expand. Your tree will stunt if you don't upgrade its home! Some insecticidal soap will clear up your spider infestation. But it'll be happier in a larger pot!


Spider mites.


Spider mites


why do you have a whole ass tree in a tea pot???


I’m seeing spider mites


First of all. It’s got spider mites.


Plant ot outside, it is not a houseplant


Definitely Spider Mite, make sure it’s not near any other plants. You don’t want it spreading. A horticultural soap will do, apply weekly.


Your lemon tree clearly has spider mites, they tend to be a problem when humidity is out of whack. I recommend using a basic insecticidal soap product to end them and then give a mild dose of nitrogen-focused fertilizer right after. Check where you have this plant and make steps to adjust the ambient humidity as needed. Spider mites like it dry usually so consider protecting this plant with a bell cloche or a humidity dome with vents to keep this plant protected.


It has spider mites


You need a bigger pot


It has spider mites. See that web with specks on it? Those are mites. Spray it with dishsoapy water twice a week (not antibacterial dishsoap though).


It is content with its size


FYI they have about a three day reproductive cycle so whatever you do, repeat it every three days til those suckers are gone!


Nitrogen deficiency


Look at those leaves, they want MORE room! And what’s that curious filth and fuzz on this pristine specimen? Don’t let those guys move in and you are! Give that plant some space to fight the fuck back! I also call a soapy water spray to have them move out like it will be the worst smelling fart EVER!! ( protect the dirt paper towel or whatever.. ) and move that precious gem queen beauty to a bigger pot…. Let her grow a left fucking hook (👊) to keep her supported.


Omg spider mites!


I read that as “I already reported it,” and I was thinking finally, somewhere I can report my misbehaving plants to so they can get a proper talking to.


I have a thimble I can send ya when you need a bigger pot.


Spider mites. Get rid of it and try again


I think you should transfer it to a pot that has hole beneath it. So that it can get oxygen


Sprinkling fresh, fine wood Ash also works, to be washed away after 24-48 hrs. Repeat if required.


Was is indoors or outdoors


Spider mites, as others have said. I keep several lemon trees, along with a tangerine tree. They are very susceptible to spider mites. I control them by adding some essential oils to a spay bottle of water, and then spraying the plants. I use a 32 oz spray bottle and then add: 20 drops of citronella oil20 drops of tee tree oil20 drops of mint oil Shake the bottle and spray generously. I have also use diatomaceous, but it tends to leave a lot of white residue on the leaves. So, if I use it, I only use it on top of the soil and I spray the plants with the water and essential oils. I keep my citrus trees outside in the summer (Minnesota) and in our solarium in winter. This is the first winter I have yet to see any. I think it is because I treated all of my plants this way before I brought them in. I am spraying them once per month anyway, just to keep them at bay. They tend to gather on the new, soft, tender growth. Once they establish, they require regular treatment. Other nearby plants can be harboring them, even if you don't see them. Also: make sure it gets lot of direct Sun and, if possible, use a small fan to keep air circulating around it.


It’s missing Bacardi flavour


You mentioned you were going to repot it, when you do, id recommend bare rooting it. I fought with spider mites on my lemons for like a year. Eventually i just said fuck it and trunk chopped them(they weren’t huge) and scrubbed every inch of the plant manually. Mine are for bonsai though so trunk chopping is part of the game haha


In addition to the spider mites, in my experience growing different kinds of citrus in tropics I find that they go through growth cycles where they grow some new leaves and branches, then focus on maturing that growth, then pause before repeating the cycle. Those top two leaves look like they are in that new leaf that needs to mature before growing new leaves phase. For mites I’ve had success with neem oil as well as with peroxide. For peroxide, I use one table spoon (15 mL) of 40 Vol (12%) peroxide in 1.2L of water. If you use the more common 10 Vol (3%) peroxide bought in pharmacies, it would be 4 table spoons for same volume of water, though people usually use 3 spoons per 1 litre to simplify.


@OP, I know this is offtopic, but that series x needs more air! You basically left one outtake clear. Move it to the center of the shelf at least.


I haven‘t played it for 6 months now, that‘s why it‘s parked in a space saving manner :D ty


I've had luck blasting my citrus with a hose. Otherwise neem oil or diatomaceous earth. This lil guy probably wouldn't handle a hose at this time.


It's a tree grows with the season. Not fast like vegetable


Get a bag of SoHum living soil and a 10 gallon pot to put it in. It definitely has a nutrient deficiency which is the leading cause of insect issues. Bugs hate healthy plants.


Everything everyone has said.. but also if it’s winter where you are growing will definitely slow for the season.


Bigger pot?


iseee webs


Since the plant is so small, I'd give it a good rinse/wipe with just water to start. Then, neem oil it half to death every week or two for about a month. This method saved my dieffenbachia, and it was half dead before I realized what the problem was.


Spider Mites (aka, plant murderers)


Clean with soapy water and give it used coffee grounds 3x a year.


Infested with spider mites. Wipe the leaves w an alcohol soaked cotton ball


Nasty things! A plant this small would be easy to wipe off all the leaves with a soapy washcloth then give it a rinse under the faucet. Good luck.


Spider mites?


Wash those leaves with soap and water asap


Spider mites.


Spider mites


I have a lemon tree thing as well and I thought the thing was dead. I was going to throw it out. All the leaves fell off. The leaves came back and even more. All that to say don’t give up.


Definitely spidermites.


Cold pressed neem oil will fix them up in a jiffy Water the soil with it too to kill off any larvae or other pests.


Spider mites


super duper need a bigger pot and more soil :) let it grow!


Might just be a lemon, try again


See what just happened people. I am educated enough to give her a proper debate on salt, ya salt, she couldn't handle it. So she disappears along with all her expert knowledge of salt and organics. 🤣🤣🤣🤣. I am no expert on salt but I sure know it come from more than just sea water and underground mines. There is salt in many things on this planet. Hell most bottled synthetic fertilizers are salt based. That must make them organic right.


Like where? We were talking table salt. So.. where else does table salt come from, and what are the bad for the body ways which it is prepared?


Shit I can give you 3 other sources to extract salt from. Like I said I am not an expert but I do know salt can be extracted from sand, animal blood, and plant ashes. And the conversation never said anything about table salt she just mentioned salt in general.


So for sand and ashes it looks like those are added water and dehydrated. You're saying they use a chemical process? I'm not seeing anything in general searches for salts derived from animal blood. Not doubting, but what do you mean?


I never said they use a chemical process. I was just suggesting. Like I said I am not a salt expert. Animal blood may not be used anymore but back in the day it was a salt source.


If I have this correct, what you're saying is you can't point to an inorganic salt process.


Yes in an inorganic process there have additives added to the salt. Pretty simple shit


https://practicalselfreliance.com/foraging-salt-inland/ Read this article the part about animal blood salts. In that same section you will notice how it says comercially made salt has iodine added to it. And then there was non organic salt. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_salt#:~:text=In%20chemistry%2C%20an%20organic%20salt,iodine%20or%20anti%2Dcaking%20agents If you read this it explains how salt has additives like iodine making it non organic


Morton's without iodine doesn't call itself organic. So that's interesting.


Iodine free but not organic because they have used some kind of anti-caking agent in it


My friend, they were talking about organic salt. No one is selling organic salts. They are selling organic SALT. which means table salt and you know it. You're twisting the conversation to match your priorities. It's disingenuous.


I am "THEY" my friend. I know what the whole conversation is and was about. How can you jump in 2 hours after the fact and tell me the original debater what the conversation was about.


Oh here's something for your education then In chemistry, an organic salt is a salt (chemistry) containing an organic ion. In marketing, organic salt is a term for table salt (sodium chloride, NaCl) that is without additives like iodine or anti-caking agents. So... Salt marketed as organic is table salt. Just thought you'd want to know since you're inventing things.


Inventing what. I am on the organic side of the arguement. This is why you can't join a debate 2 hours later


Inventing that organic salt means something other than table salt.


I never said that. Like before don't join in 2 hours after the fact and think you know what's going on.


That being said the person who started all this is the one that told me how can they sell organic salt it's a marketing ploy. I responded with its the process of how they extract or process it. They then argued that basically I am stupid it's a mineral blah blah tisk tisk.


i beleave he need a large spot now 🤭


Sun ?


Sun ?


Jaylist. Organic grown plants still use fertilizer. They use organic fertilizer not chemical fertilizer. And if you grow large scale using Natural Farming methods it costs about $30/acre of land for the inputs. If someone sees this and wants to copy and paste it to jaylist to read that would be great. The woman who had the hissy fit and deleted her shit hindered me from posting on that thread anymore.


I'm suspecting natodes