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3dxl

Just add latex sealant inside your inner tube, you'll get higher PSI with added advantage of self seal at high pressure when punctured over low PSI tubeless and less mess. MAXXIS inner tube support sealant entry via removable valve core. You can choose any tire you want.


jburgad

I’m running 28mm tubeless tires on Zipp 303s wheels. These wheels require tubeless tire setup and Zipp as a company is betting big on tubeless hookless wheels. After 300km I couldn’t be more pleased with the ride quality allowed by being able to run lower pressure ~55psi. For fit and reliability I cannot stress enough for you to find the list of tires that have been tested by the wheel manufacturer to be compatible. Zipp and Bontrager both provide this information and I assume others do as well. Good luck and happy cycling.


joelav

I don't run tubeless (anymore) on any tire that gets more than 40/45PSI of pressure. Punctures just don't seal well, or fast enough


wattsbase

Sealant. Stans for low pressure. Peaty's for high pressure. I run 32mm slicks on endurance roady at 45/50psi. Was using stans, now peaty's. The sealant switch...4 hours preparing tyres for remount. Sucks, yes. Worth the effort, yes. Rider defeats goat head thorns!


BongosNotBombs

Eh, I have tubeless-ready wheels and still went tubed. I carry a full size frame pump, so doing a tube change on the side of the road up to full riding pressure is doable within minutes.


MisterEdGein7

It was the price of the tubeless tires that did it for me. Pretty much twice the price of tubed tires.


BongosNotBombs

Ooof. It's sort of like beadlock wheels with the Jeep when I was pricing those out - if I lost the bead multiple times on a trip, I could see the advantages, but if I'm getting more than two flats on a bike trip, I have to reevaluate what I'm doing...


terrymorse

Tubeless on a high pressure, low volume road tire? No, thank you. That's a waste of time and money.


ThaddeusMalone

Cool opinion from 10 years ago, grandpa.


terrymorse

High pressure tubeless is for suckers. And get off my lawn!


hills_for_breakfast

Agreed. Imho it just trades one set of problems for a different set of problems..


TheSalzamt

no tubes no problems, that also true for modern rims with modern tires on road bikes. more grip, less rotating weight, no snakebites when crossing a tiny gravel road or sidewalk. never going back.


terrymorse

High-pressure tubeless myths: 1. more grip. False. There is no difference in grip between an equivalent tubeless and tube-required tire. 2. less rotating weight. False. A TPU-tubed tire weighs less than a tubeless with sealant. 3. no snakebites. Irrelevant. Snakebite punctures on latex tubes are almost nonexistent. 4. less rolling resistance. False. A latex- or TPU-tubed tire has equivalent rolling resistance to a tubeless tire.


TheSalzamt

>less rotating weight. False. A TPU-tubed tire weighs less than a tubeless with sealant. Sorry but that's just not true. I agree that latex tubes vs tubeless are almost equivalent in rolling Resistance (sometimes even better). Latex tubes basically lose air pressure over night, tubeless last for at least a week at 6 bar. Latex tubes are also more expensive then just using tubeless sealant. They still get snakebites, even though more rarely. The weight is not less, its equivalent but its rotating, hence more energy needed to accelerate it. The differences are marginal and negligible but the tubeless setup is superior in every single way, including the costs. It just took ages for bicycles to adopt, every other wheeled vehicle already has it since ages. Sources: [https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/top-3-fastest-tubeless-vs-tubeshttps://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/schwalbe-one-tubeless-clincher](https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/top-3-fastest-tubeless-vs-tubeshttps://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/schwalbe-one-tubeless-clincher) and many more I don't have at hand now.


terrymorse

It is not difficult to configure a tubed tire that weighs less than a equivalent tubeless setup. Here are some published numbers for tire and tube weights: * GP 5000-25: 215 g * GP 5000 TL-25: 300 g * GP 5000 TR-25: 250 g * Tubolito S-Turbo Road tube: 22 g * Sealant for road tire (typical amount): \~30 g


TheSalzamt

That's true. As an Austrian myself, I like Tubolito of course but they have their downsides. While being extremely lite, they are *very* expensive, lose their pressure quick and also, while being quite puncture resistant, age over time. I never had one in my gravel bike for longer then a few months. It seems like the material becomes brittle. Every specifically tuned tube setup can outperform a TL setup in one specific way but it makes it worse in many other aspects at the same time. But as your numbers show, if you want a very light setup, go for Tubolito and GP 5000. Overall I don't see how a tubed setup can outperform tubeless if price, maintenance and the ease of fixing punctures also come to play.


Popular-Ad-8717

I have a set of Ritchey Zeta 2 rims (2014?) that are tubeless ready. What's cool is they have no spoke holes, no taping required, but I'm still hesitant to go tubeless for road after reading about compatibility/seating/high pressure sealing issues with tires, etc. On the MTB though, tubeless a must.


SeepyTech

My gravel wheels also don't have spoke holes. Very convenient. It was a very painless process. I just can't believe I wasted so much time on these road tires when they weren't tubeless compatible to begin with. Live and learn to double check.


Popular-Ad-8717

Well, on the bright side, you may have dodged a bullet anyways. The tubeless benefits for the road just aren't there, unless you puncture often, then MAYBE.


ReelyAndrard

When you puncture often (Socal goathead thorns anyone) tubeless is the only way to go.


Prudent-Proposal1943

That's the hard way to go tubes but hey, on 25mm contis, I doubt you'll feel any difference. Might as well treat yourself go latex after all that effort.


fusiongt021

25mm? Don't be a hero, go wider! But to each their own ... I just thought the days of 25mm are just for pros where 28-32mm are pretty good widths for non pros. You won't be losing much speed and will be gaining lots of comfort from riding with lower psi with the wider tires. Personally I ride with tubes on my road bike and then tubeless with the gravel and mountain. From talking with my LBS, he doesn't see the need for tubeless on road bikes as sometimes they're more trouble than they're worth. Sorry you misread the wheel specifications, but don't feel too bad if you stick with it and use tubes, they'll still be good.


SeepyTech

This is a 10 year old road bike. I wanted 28mm but the Google searches lead me to 25mm due to tight clearances on 28. Hell, it had 23mm on when I got it and I road it this way for a couple months. 25mm will feel like a big upgrade.


Low_Transition_3749

The GP5000 comes in 2 versions: Tubeless Ready and Tube. There's another catch though. The Tubeless Ready GP5000 is for HOOKED RIMS ONLY. Had a customer insist that we put GP5000s on his hookless Zipp rims. Had to show him both Continental's and Zipp's website, each of which says the tires and rims are not compatible.