By - Squiizzy
Just build it.
It's what I'm doing. If my council says anything I'll direct them to the 2 illegal dwellings just down the road (that they're aware of).
It's what most people in my area do, the councils are short resourced and generally won't go after people unless someone puts a complaint in.
>how to build a pergola attached to the house
You may find that ”freestanding" an inch away from the main building, or roof overlapping, will result in a different set of rules, which may be easier to comply with.
That's obviously unrelated to your current issue, but based on how most others end up building, might offer help in the longer run
Private certifier is what council is suggesting not a surveyor.
One of the things that can stuff your deck is the BAL rating , this will determine the species of timber you are allowed to use in your area.
Thanks, thats good advice I was looking for.
Honestly, I'd just design and build the thing to be modular, get it installed yourself and lodge the permit. When the time comes for an inspection and you get the green light, put it back up. :P If they haven't got time to review a permit, they won't be hurrying along to see if you've started work.
If you build it properly retrospective approval, if the council kicks up a stink, is easy.
Making sure it’s within your BAL spec is critical.
Make sure it’s adequately tied down (lightweight roofing rafters and batons can’t just be fixed with skew nails. Metal brackets like triple grips or screws to prevent uplift failure are a must).
Proper concrete footings with upright posts correctly fixed to them (cast in with rod through the post or fixed with a metal bracket and steel bolts).
Those were the major hiccups I remember when doing retrospective engineering inspections. Footings tend to need to be bigger than you expect and are the hardest to rectify after a build.
If you want to have it fixed to your existing property I’d recommend using rafter brackets. These make sure that the new veranda is tied to the house preventing failure. [Do not fix the rafters to the steel fascia plate with brackets. This bracket clips on and off and won’t tie it to the houses footings.]Water needs to be directed away from the footings (gutters and down pipes)
If you cover these bases getting and engineer out to certify the structure in the future should be relatively easy. Do up some drawings, and photograph the build (footings prior to pouring, how it’s fixed to the existing house, tie downs etc) this will save time and money if retrospective approval is required. Save your receipts and put in a big folder with your house plans.
As to the rafter/baton layout if you match what’s going on in your own roof you shouldn’t be too far off. If you’re mathematically inclined there are span tables for most timber which should enable you to pick the correct edge beam.
Most small engineers will have a typical set of drawings for a verandah which may take some of the guess work out. hipages was how my old firm used to find work and pushes them to quote lean.
Thanks very much for telling me all this. I had the span tables and mechanical fixings covered, and the posts are dynabolting straight onto the existing concrete pad. You've helped guve me confidence I'm on the right track. I'll look uo the hi-pages and find an engineer. Thanks mate.
Dynabolts don't have a lot of capacity, and won't provide any real lateral bracing in the way a cast-in fixing would. You definitely need to talk to an engineer
Just change the wording to "Pagoda" and say it's for religious reasons.
Mate, $4000 won’t even cover the ice milk and meat pies. Add a 1 in front of it. The tradies must have thought you were a comedian to get them out of bed for that.
Just be certain you put the permits in correctly. I put a permit in for a Pergola then had it rejected 3 months later as i needed to put a permit in for a Verandah due to it needing a roof. Had to redo the paperwork and pay for a new permit.
In my area they fly the planes over looking for verandas, pools and pool size potholes they neglect to fix. If your rural maybe you can risk it.
By the time you add in all the different work including pest control to spray everything down, plumbers if doing a roof it will be 10k+ easy. If your building your own I strongly suggest you measure one that was compliant to the inch, we were dinged for a step being 20mm high and the inspector spent over an hour going over it.
I costed $4000 of materials to build it myself. Thanks for the advice, I'm rural but its a new estate. I'm worried I'll get stung too.
Golden rule of quoting materials is to double the existing high estimate and add 50%.
Even secondary things like wastage, decking screws, cutting blades, fasteners and varnish add up. Especially in this market where you might need to substitute and all the good wood you want gets allocated to long term customers before it arrives.
It surprised me! I saved thousands doing it as an owner builder. The local planning office drew the design and I organised the carpenter who sourced the materials and did the hard work. Just had to get a white card.
Dunno why your first comment got downvoted. This is a solid shout, thanks man.