73 BMW 2003 brake questions.
By - MILF_Man
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The pistons on the wheel cylinder have a slot in them that the shoe sits in. It’s possible for the piston to rotate 90 degrees so that the shoe no longer sits in the slot. Either use a flat head screw driver throw the rubber of the wheel cylinder to re clock the piston or you can pull the rubber off to take a look.
Also this is a 2002, not a 2003
His title says 2003.
Title is wrong. There is no 2003.
Lol. I'm going to bag on him so hard over this.
A buddy of mine owns this 1973 BMW 2003. It had bad brakes in the rear so he decided to replace the pads himself.
He ordered the parts and went to install them only to realize that the brakes had been upgraded in the past to something else.
He believes that it may be the brakes from a 320 but he isn't sure.
He reassembled everything and now cannot get the drums over the pads.
I'm not available to look at it myself but I was hoping there was a BMW guy on here that could eyeball the picture and let me know if everything looked okay in his opinion because it all looks pretty good to me.
one shoe is higher than the other. its just one is pushed up..
at 10 and 2 o clock are the adjusting screws.. the pins thru the slotted holes.. you have to turn those inward from the top to move the shoes in to get the drum back over it. when the drum is on.. snug down 2 lug nuts without the wheel.. turn the bolt heads that are the on the backing plate out from the top till the shoes just drag. you can do this one at a time.. this sets the shoe retract distance from the drum. so the wheel cylinder can push out and allow it to retract. if the adjusters are not set right. the driver may experience excessive travel of the pedal and reduced rear braking power..
i have not done an early BMW brake job in 25 years.. i have run into a few that had the adjuster screws rusted up and would not move easily.
He says the screws are backed out all the way.
in the picture. the right hand adjuster seems to be pushing out on the shoe..
from fully in to fully out on the adjustment is only half a turn on each adjuster. its an eccentric.
Yeah he verified that the adjuster is all the way in.
His neighbor, a mechanic, came over and went over everything. Its in correctly.
The only thing I can see is that the left side of the wheel cylinder is sticking out further than the right side (where the brake shoe makes contact with the wheel cylinder.
Maybe try using a small ratchet strap around the brake shoes to compress the wheel cylinder?
I love that ideal, passing it along.
Crack the bleeder, let that piston compress.
It's a new wheel cylinder, it has not been bled yet.
I told him to compress the wheel cylinder so we shall see.
Disks you back off the adjustment screw?
Has he adjusted the "star wheel" (automatic brake adjustment mechanism) to allow the brake shoes to "retract" toward each other? As the brake shoes wear, that wheel turns to force the brake shoes outward so that they are the proper distance from the brake drum, and the star wheel is then locked into place by a metal clip/pin. Upon replacing brake shoes and/or drums, those adjusters need to be turned to allow everything to seat properly and be reassembled.
Completely backed down and bottomed out.
Compare old shoes with new
Exactly the same. Obviously the new ones pads are far thicker than the old ones.
Pretty standard drum brake... they’re basically all the same...
Hence my confusion that it's not working. I mean, that stuff really only goes together one way.
Just actually read the post, have you adjusted the ebrake adjuster all the way in?
I will ask him to check that.