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Any idea what could cause these scratches?
Used ultimate polish and a Griots pad. Was a good first time.
Not aggressive at all. Didn’t correct everything I wanted but I see how to do it now. Thanks for the help.
I washed with CG V7 foamed over vehicle, rinsed then followed with a contact wash, then clayed. Followed with Hex Logic Orange pad and CG VSS, followed that with a Hex Logic White pad and CG V38, followed by Hex Logic Black pad and CG Hydro Slick. What did I do wrong? Totally frustrated at this point.
Edit: Griots DA used. No pressure added other than to keep the DA flat on the panels.
Having trouble finding iso due to covid-19. How do you recommend I remove old wax for a sealant application?
Planning a first time paint correction for my beater car and new car, did I do my homework right?
Harbor Freight DA
Astro Backing Pad 5"
3 Lake County Pads (black, white, orange) 5"
1 Buff and Shine Uro Fiber Pad 5"
M105, M205, and Sonax Perfect Finish
Nanoskin Pad Brush
Iron X and Eraser
Nanoskin Wash Mitt
CQuartz 50ml and Reload
Megs Gold Class Shampoo
ONR to use as QD
Extra Fluffy TRC Towels
Is 50 ml cquartz enough? And I want to experiment with 2 stage vs 1 stage hence the variety in pads and polishes, but could I make do with just that 4 or will I have to buy more? Thanks for the help!
Can that piece be removed from the car? Take it out, hit it with some strong APC and agitate with a stiff bristled brush and if that doesn't remove it then whatever it is appears to have permanently stained the plastic.
New BMW M550i - Black Sapphire Metallic. What would be the first step in protecting this paint? First time owning a black ride. Thanks!!!
I am debating between using griots iron fallout remover vs the griots bug and smudge remover. Which one is gentler on the clear coat ?
What ONR ratio should I use to remove bugs without damaging the paint? At 256:1, I find myself using a bit of force to remove them with a microfiber towel.
In my first few washes with ONR I found the same problem, while dirt and dust was being removed from the surface there were plenty of marks that just didn't shift without being scrubbed quite hard.
What I ended up doing was having a bottle of citrus pre-cleaner to hand, wash a panel and then if there was any muck still left on it then I would give it a quick spray with the pre-cleaner and then once I had finished the next panel go back and wipe it off. I found that it worked very well.
I am a mobile detailer and I am planning to upgrade my extractor to a better one and I need some recommendations.
I currently have the Rugdoctor Portable and I hate the fact that the hose is not long enough, so I have to put the extractor right by the door to be able to reach the middle seats, if it is a truck, forget it, it won't reach.
After some research I came upon heated vs non-heated extractors, is it really worth it having the heated water?
Some of the extractors I am considering:
CleanFreak® Heated Carpet Spot Cleaner - [Link](https://www.cleanfreak.com/equipment/carpet/extractors/portable/heated-carpet-spot-cleaner.html)
CleanFreak® Commercial Carpet Spot Cleaning Machine - [Link](https://www.cleanfreak.com/equipment/carpet/extractors/portable/commercial-carpet-spot-cleaning-machine.html)
Mytee S-300 Tempo - [Link](https://www.detailedimage.com/Mytee-M74/S-300-Tempo-Automotive-Spotter-Extractor-P999/)
Mytee S-300H Tempo Heated - [Link](https://www.amazon.com/Mytee-S-300H-Heated-Upholstery-Extractor/dp/B01IW4SETY)
Detailer PRO Heated Carpet Spotter - 3 Gallon - [Link](https://www.floormatshop.com/Detailer-Pro-Heated-Carpet-Extractor.aspx?matchtype=&network=g&device=c&keyword=&campaign=1337060088&adgroup=pla-513380765727&_vsrefdom=floormatshop&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm7bGuYGP6QIVQ-G1Ch2YYwFdEAQYCCABEgJI5vD_BwE)
Are there any other extractors I should do some research on?
I have heard great things about Mytee, some people recommended the Clean Freak as well.
Help. I am confused. I have a 2018 Silverado. I received a DA polisher with 6” plate for my birthday. I want to get ride of the light swirls and the scratches near the door handles.
I use a 2 bucket method and clay and I have used the old McGuire’s 3 step by hand on other cars in the past.
I am thinking the m205 followed buy a sealant
But I need to buy pads
What pads do you suggest for the polish and then the wax for a beginner? I looked at the wiki but I’m not sure if I should use orange or white. And do the colors match across manufacturers?
Can I put a microfiber bonnet on for buffing off rain x?
If you are taking out swirls and very light scratches the m205 and orange pad is good enough. The white and m205 would be to give it a final polish. But you'll probably be happy after the orange combo.
Then you would down with a isopropyl alcohol solution (dilute to 12-15%) to get rid of the polish residue. This will give you a clean bare paint for your wax or sealant.
Then you put your wax or sealant down. You can use a red or black pad for that or do it by hand. Obviously wrong off with a microfiber towel as the directions say for your product.
Thank you. The truck is a 2018 and the swirls and scratches are light.
Appreciate the response.
Apex detail and Ammo NYC have great instructional style videos for polishing steps. If you want a cut and dry approach to instructing then Dallas Paint Correction on YouTube.
Also Apex has a good video explaining the importance and expectation of different pads.
Thank you. I saw Dallas paint corrections video last night.
The amount and kind of pads are a little overwhelming for someone who has only ever done wax etc by hand.
I know. That's why I looked at Apex. His pad descriptions helped.
Good luck with the polishing.
Thanks. It went really well. I was very happy with my results.
Excellent. Glad everything went well.
I recently ordered a Griot's 6 DA and preparing to do my first 2 step paint correction. My DD is a Black '14 JSW but will use my 2000 Black F150 as a test run.
I'm watching more videos and getting prepped but could use some inputs on my plan of attack. I already own all the equipment except for the Decon spray and pads/backing plate. The Griots 6 DA is on the way.
1. Chemical guys foam pre wash
2. light single pass with MF towels
3. Pressure wash mist clean
4. ONR with BRS
5. Towel Dry
6. Clay with Nanoskin mitt and ONR diluted for lube
7. wipe dry with MF
8. Decon with EO Tire and plastidip cleaner (if i can get my hands on it soon)
9. IPA wipe (what % IPA do folks use, this is getting harder to come by especially 90%)
Now I start to get overwhelmed with options: My DD is a black 14 Jetta Sport Wagen with panoramic sunroof. Paint is in pretty tough shape. Lots of really bad buffer swirl marks from when i bought the car, some etching from bird droppings, water spots, scratches and some a good amount of paint chips on my lower hood and front bumper, from rocks I guess. Id kinda like to try my hand at addressing those as well since i have a lot of this work over again if i were to do it later, but maybe best to save that round 2.
So, my original plan was Meguire 105/205 with at least 3 levels of pad, probably the LC CCS pads 2 each of Orange, White and Green. Also considering a meguire MF pad for some heavy oxidation on my beater truck.I will be using 5.5" pads.
Im sure that lineup will work really well but would also consider simplifying this approach if I can achieve very good results with less time and cost. Maybe the Griot's compound and polish in 1 cream?
thoughts on my game plan? Things I am missing, things to do differently?
I recently inherited my father's 1961 Cadillac convertible. He and I did a mechanical restoration on the drivetrain and had the interior redone for my wedding in 2015 and I've been enjoying it since then. While my Dad and I took the car to car shows on the regular, it's a driver. It will never be a trailer queen or concours car, but I will absolutely treat it like one. I've been reading the buying guides to get the basics, and also have a Girot's random orbit buffer that my Dad bought, along with Girot's creams and some waxes. But I have a lot of questions.
Well, the paint on this car is in rough shape. The original paint is an acrylic lacquer, and it was re-painted when my Dad bought the car in the mid-70's, and that's it. There was a lot of damage during the restoration, along with damage from being an old car. Dings, nicks, a lighting fixture actually fell on the car. The plan is to get the car repainted, but that will be expensive. For now, I feel comfortable about how to wash and polish the paint.
There's a lot of chrome trim, polished stainless steel trim, and anodized aluminum trim pieces on this car. There's also a lot of intricate work and small spaces (the grill in particular). Keeping the trim in the best possible condition is very important to me, partially because it's expensive to re-plate and also because it's a big part of the character of the car.
What products should be used? I've seen Flitz recommended a few times, as well as Blue Magic. Are there applicators that are recommended? I have a corded drill and battery-powered impact driver as well as the random orbit. Hand held brush sizes to use? When getting close to the trim with the random orbit, is it best to switch to hand polishing for the paint?
This car has polished hubcaps with painted interiors. I would guess either APC or using the same shampoo for washing the car to wash out the hubcaps?
White wall tires. Any products recommended for cleaning white walls and then dressing the black rubber? I drive about 2,000 miles a year in this car, so having the rubber last a long time is ideal.
The interior is leather, painted metal, and chrome. The leather is two-tone, with red and white. The white is already getting dirty. Due to the high cost of the interior and relatively low usage, I'm willing to pay a premium on product for this. I've seen APC suggested as a starting point with lots of agitation, followed up by a conditioner. Leatherique has been a suggested specalized product.
It's a convertible. The top is white. It's still white right now, but I could see it getting a little dingy quickly. I've seen 303 Convertible Top Cleaner suggested a few times, but all of the photos show it being used on black tops, is there anything different I should be using for a white top?
The engine bay is in great shape. Metal panels are powder coated, which I understand to be like paint for detailing purposes. The engine itself and accessories are painted as well, so for that I'm figuring I can bag/cover the battery, generator, and distributor/coils, spray sections with an APC, agitate with a brush, and then wipe down with microfiber towels on a regular basis.
Front 3/4 shot of car: [https://www.dropbox.com/s/32royzv1pp0xjz7/CaddyDetailed\_2.jpg?dl=0](https://www.dropbox.com/s/32royzv1pp0xjz7/CaddyDetailed_2.jpg?dl=0)
Back 3/4 of car: [https://www.dropbox.com/s/je0905otfjgvm3o/CaddyDetailed\_3.jpg?dl=0](https://www.dropbox.com/s/je0905otfjgvm3o/CaddyDetailed_3.jpg?dl=0)
Can,t give any advise as not advanced enough but I will say this. THAT is a beautiful car
Out of ideas. How do I get rid of these streaks when wiping? I've already tried clay bar the windshield and get new clean wipers.
what streaks, any pictures
Shoot forgot to put the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GC2XzZQ15mU&feature=youtu.be
Do sealants cause the same issues as wax on black trim? I'm getting real tired it taping my vehicle off so I'm thinking about just using Meguiars Ultimate Wax and calling it a day with the understanding I'll have to do this more often than a sealant. I don't think I've used a real sealant before.
It would say on the bottle I think
Is this a good kit?[good kit?](https://imgur.com/gallery/5Pz5yUS)
Please help me on my paint. There seems to be a dark nasty film on my paint's surface. I tried clay, and it only comes off when I scrub ridiculously hard, which I'm not comfortable with doing even with lube on the surface. The car is pearl white, and here are some pictures, I don't know if you will be able to see what I'm talking about on the pictures, but it's way easier to see it in person:
[I did the gas tank, the surrounding area is untouched](https://i.imgur.com/AuORNi9.jpg)
[Left side of my finger is untouched, right side is clayed](https://i.imgur.com/0F6F64d.jpg)
[What ended up on my clay bar](https://i.imgur.com/pH8CACQ.jpg)
My question is: Should I keep scrubbing hard on the surface, or is there something else I should be doing (Iron Decon, compound, wet sand, etc.)
Wash the car with About 3oz of APC in your wash bucket and see if that helps. follow up with a regular wash after.
I used Adam's APC and it did the trick. Thank you very much. Is there anything I should do now afterwards (eg. did I strip the wax off, etc.)?
Last weekend with the nice weather I took the time to decontamiate, clay, 2 step polish & seal my car. Prior to polish, i touched up some stone chips which needed doing using a cocktail stick to fill the holes, and used 2000 grit wet sand to smooth over the little bumps they created.
However after polishing (Megs 105 and 205 compound, orange pad) the sand marks would not leave even after a few passes only on the bonnet (hood), and i now have a haze/satin area in my paint.
Before buying any crazy products (looked at G3 & G10, Megs ultimate, even TCut) would it be worth sanding finer? 3000? 4000? strangly any sanding marks on my bumpers came out no problem with the megs 105 and 205 and they look brand new. The rest of the paint work looks showroom and I think i done a good job bar this 3"² area, which is annoying me.
For info its a 2014 Seat Leon FR, white.
Can I apply a topper SIo2 based over a ceramic coating after using ONR?
I've been reading a lot of old threads on here. I just got a used car not too long ago, a black forester that almost looks silver under sunlight because of the swirl marks. I'm finding conflicting information. I am looking to DIY polish and wax/seal it but my search result is confusing.
Some say clay bar before waxing, yet using a clay bar might introduce marring/swirls? What should you do? Wash -> Wax or Wash->clay->wax? Which cuts down on swirls? I'd prefer not to do too many corrections as I've never done it before and know for sure I'm gonna mess it up. Thanks.
Clay removes contiminants from your paint. How is it going to be able to do that if you've put a layer of wax on your paint first?
My search showing me to clay everytime before waxing..
It's not necessary to do it every time. Personally I do it if it's a car that hasn't been waxed in a while so there is no layer of protection on the paint, or simply if the paint still feels rough after being washed.
Wanting to try out a DIY ceramic coating for the first time (Mothers CMX). I’m using a clay bar kit to go over my paint first, and I’ve noticed some scratches and chips that I’d like to fix up before the ceramic coating - wondering if anyone had advice on the best way to do this? I was planning on using Mother’s Step 1 polish after claying, giving it a rinse over, and then applying the ceramic coating. Any advice would be appreciated! Cheers :)
Sand everything off and start over. You've absolutely trashed it and you don't ever shoot clearcoat over dip. Want a permanent finish? That's what paint is for.
Any help with the front seat of my Tiguan? I spilled some iced tea on it (just a bit) a few days ago and it made a spot. Today I picked up some up some 'Meguiar's Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner' and it did this:
What can I do to fix this? It looks worse than before the cleaner.
Bought some all-purpose and put it a spray bottle. Sprayed it and scrubbed with a stiff brush, then shop vac'ed it out. Worked great!
Doing a two step in my black 2015 Golf. Car was daily driven (been garage parked since January) and definitey has been ran through more than a few standard car washes.... prior to my ownership.
Running a Torq10fx at speed 4/7 using a yellow pad with Jescar correcting compound. Polishing with orange pad and jescar micro finish at same speed.
Results I’m getting aren’t as thrilling as expected... pic below. Still noticeable spiderwebs that id like to eliminate. Any advice?
S.O.S. Cat Urine
Long story short, car sprayed on the back seat of the most expensive thing I own. Between my hours getting chopped and covid, the professional detail will have to wait.
Any suggestions to treat the area that is leather friendly? Some of the usual cat pee suggestions from google make me nervous on leather. Thank you!!!!
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I've used Armor All's Wash and Wax from Walmart for years. It's cheap at <$5 for 64 ounces and typically fill the entire foam sprayer's container with this (\~32oz). More soap means more suds, right? That 32 oz blasts through in a few minutes of using it.
Via Youtube, I see most people are using just a few ounces of soap in sprayers. Am I using too much?
Also, are not all washes/soaps created equal in terms of suds? Would something like Chemical Guy's Citrus Wash which comes in 16 oz bottles create much more foam with only 2oz of product?
I live in Europe, most recommendations for (DA) polisher on this subreddit and a lot of websites are prohibitively expensive here. Is there any decent, not too expensive (think 150-200€) DA polisher I can get in Europe? If so, which pads and polish should I get?
# Glass is The Bane of my Existence
I hate it sooo much, how can i clean water marks or just get it clean in general.
Onr washing method?
I've seen lots and lots recommendations for ONR.
The question is: where can you buy it in Europe (and not pay more for shipping fee than for the product)?
Europe is a continent, shipping fees vary... Ask your local detailing stores/fb groups etc
I am considering to put PPF to my car, maybe just the front part (front bumper, hood, headlights, fenders). I have seen some of those products like the 3M scotchgard pro that claims to have self-healing and such, but how does it work?
Let's say you got a couple of rock chips to the PPF, does self-healing actually heals out the scratches and tears that may have caused by objects hitting to the PPF? Or is it really just a one time use kind of a thing, and I would have to remove the whole thing afterwards?
If damage towards PPF is able to heal, does it return back to its original look?
I don't really see the point of doing PPF if it's only going to be a one time use and the scratches/tears never heal back, seems quite expensive to keep replacing them.
There are two things that are happening with PPF with specific regard to your questions:
1. PPF is designed to take the impact of debris so your paintwork doesn’t. Think of it like body armour, there are many kinds, most have a base level of protection, some are more advanced than others, all will protect you from multiple stabbings with a pen, all will fail a shot with an amour piercing round.
2. PPF, by nature, will hide scratches better than your clearcoat. A key will scratch PPF but it won’t show anywhere near as bad as a key into paintwork due to the material construction. Using another analogy; if you scratch solid chocolate, you can see it easily due to the micro stress fractures that form along the entire length. Scratching liquid chocolate is impossible because it immediately reflows. There are all manner of degrees in between.
Self healing PPF will repair scratches by applying heat to reflow the substrate, only to a certain extent. You’ll need to do further research of each brand of self healing film to decide what is right for you.
Thanks for the analogies. Would you say in alot of cases, PPF should last for the duration of the life of the vehicle even with the amount of potential damage that the PPF will be taking? Is it reasonable to think modern PPF will last over 5 years?
With a professional job from a high-quality shop, the PPF adhesion and properties should last beyond the point you wish to refresh due to defects.
But, it is entirely dependent on how you care for the film and what you subject it to, exactly like your paintwork.
Before making a choice, speak to multiple installers, ask for their opinion based on how you drive and care for the vehicle, ask them to tell you why they choose the brand of film they do and if it will meet your expectations.
An installer should know the reasons why they chose the product, if the answer is vague, perhaps they chose it based on a business decision over quality of the end product.
Thanks for the insight, I will have to do some research more about this and the cost of doing so.
Also, this is probably a stupid question, but do you think putting PPF yourself make sense as a DIY project as an attempt to save some money? Or should this be left to be done by the professionals?
Completely makes sense, just depends on how much research, investment and time you’re willing to put in and the quality expectation you have.
If you want it to look like a professional job and don’t want to put in many hours of research and testing, pay for someone to do it.
The difficulty lay in the detail; edge work, knowing where to tuck and where to trim, understanding the behaviour of the film when wet, stretched and dried, and the process of making initial basic cuts to reduce waste.
Most PPF installers will have a plotter and subscription software with pre-programmed starter stencils which cut the film to the correct shape.
These are the things you’re paying for, the film it’s self is cheap (to manufacture).
I won't be expecting professional quality like for DIY, afterall, they are professionals for a reason. I have done ceramic coating myself for my current car, which was daunting, but I managed to do it with decent results. I am willing to take the time and research about it for sure.
Speaking of that, would modern PPFs stick to ceramic coated surfaces? I realize this is my mistake, as I did not really think of PPFs before putting my ceramic coating (CQuarts UK 3.0).
Would you think pre-cut PPF kit for my car and the lowered expectation of DIY installation would be good enough to attempt this myself?
I am thinking of pre-cut partial front PPF kits, which includes full front bumper, partial hood/fenders, headlights, and mirrors.
Should I cough it up a bit more and get a bulk PPF with a size of 5ft x 4ft for just the full hood instead of partial hood that came with the kit? I have a Tesla Model 3, which seems that the front half of the hood is more curved downwards.
Visibly, I might be able to see the line from the partial hoof PPF, but what about protection? Would partial be enough, or just go full hood?
Thanks for all the help, and I apologize for keep asking you for more questions.
Give it a go. Rather than getting a full kit, perhaps start off with one piece and see how you go with the install. It will be more expensive in the end but you’ll reduce the risk of purchasing a full kit and ending up at your local installer.
The front bumper will be the most difficult section although you’ve reduced your work by having a reduced air dam in the Tesla.
PPF has no problem adhering to a ceramic coated vehicle, you’ll be fine.
As far as partial or full, the option exists due to cost, I would always put a full hood on and don’t forget the front of the roof above the windscreen, it also gets chipped, hit with bugs etc.
Good idea about the test piece, I will probably get a couple random PPF pieces somewhere to test it out. Hopefully removing it won't be a big deal.
Here's a more opinion question. 3M scotchgard pro or Suntek Ultra for PPF? It seems that they are both at similar pricing that's reasonable to me for DIY kits, what do you think of them, if you know about it? Which one seems to be better in terms of protection, install difficulty, and longevity? Thanks.
I don’t have a whole lot of experience with PPF from that perspective, best to speak to installers of each and have them explain why they use the brand they do. Both 3M and Suntek are well known, reputable brands.
I have 3M protectant on the front of my Subaru Forester, I want to wash and clay my paint, but what do I do when it comes to the 3M? I am just planning ahead for when I get an area to detail since I live in a condo and don’t have an area to work in. Never done this before and have been looking up YouTube videos.
I wouldn’t clay the PPF. You run the risk of causing it to peel at the edges.
Thanks, should I just tape it off close to the edge or just try to not go over it when I do the areas around it?
I would just be careful near the edges.
If you are using a gentle clay and are careful about your process [some people do say you can clay 3M PPF ](https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101-a/108614-new-ride-came-ppf-care-question.html). I would just leave it alone unless it really needs it.
Great, thanks for the advice!
So I purchased a 6in Griot Garage G6 [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009UKUUWE/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o05\_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009UKUUWE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews)
Newbie to detailing, what are some tips I can use. To be quite honest I'm nervous to do it. I have had it for 2 weeks but it has just been sitting there. I got it for a good price on amazon for 115$. Anything would help.
What’s crazy is i ordered this exact same one and then noticed the torq brand was maybe 10$ more with microfiber cutting pads, polishing pads and applicator pads. So i returned the griots and waiting to buy the torq brand instead
Link? If that deal is still going on maybe I'll do the same
Chemical Guys BUF_503X TORQX Random Polisher Kit with Pads, Polishes & Compounds (9 Items) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKT63XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s.IQEbCEMD0K7
Which products you guys like to layer?
I saw someone likes to use meguiars mirror glaze and then meguiars carnuba wax.
Interested in some other mixtures
Layering reduces product longevity and is purely cosmetic.
I like Klasse Twins topped with 845 or Souveran. Once you start layering it’s a crapshoot what it’ll end up looking like.
You don’t believe it adds a different look? I’m strictly going off of AMMO nyc’s videos. He says the glaze sealant is more of a cold shine and the carnuba wax is a warm glow. Doubly protected
I can’t post a pic on this thread, but I have a white Volvo XC60 that has green mold/algae on the crevices of the paint. Where body panels connect and between the letter/numbers of the badges.
This car is kept in direct sunlight, washed regularly, and none of my other vehicles kept in the exact same driveway form this. I’m thinking it’s a color thing? White tends to attract. Generally 50/50 vinegar or bleach is used in home settings but will that be too harsh on paint?
Sounds like Artillery Fungus.
Vinegar (1:1) or Bleach (3:1) or (1:1) is what others have used. Personally I’d go with vinegar and a plastic razor first.
So I just bought the Turtle Wax black ceramic polish and wanted to know what type of pad should I use to help correct my black cars paint. I have some new meguiar’s microfiber cutting pads but don’t know if that’s good for polishing. I saw that most people were using just one foam applicator pad with the product. Any help is appreciated, thanks
Kind of a loaded question as the correct pad will depend on the hardness of the paint. Soft paint like Honda’s might need a light cutting pad to “polish”, remove marring/light swirls. Whereas a bmw with hard paint might need a medium cut pad to do the same thing.
The product(compound/polish) you’re using will make the bigger difference on cut, the pads are secondary source of cut. It’s always better to start less aggressive and work your way up. Anyone with good advice will tell you to do a test spot(I know that’s a lame answer).
In general use the cutting pads with compound to correct the paint, then light or no cut pad for polish bc that brings out the gloss.
Hello, I had gotten nail polish on my rc 350 leather. Was just wondering if anyone has any advice or know what I should do to get the stain out.
The same as you would getting it off a nail: NON-ACETONE nail polish remover.
The difference here is that you’re also applying it to a porous and sensitive substrate, so care is needed.
Apply only to the stain using a cotton bud and gentle twisting motions to collect the nail polish. This may require one round to moisten the lacquer and subsequent rounds to remove it entirely.
Break in between sessions to allow the solvents to flash and the leather to dry, this will prevent saturation and damage.
Once complete, clean the entire seat with APC/soapy water/leather cleaner and finish with a leather conditioner/wax/cream/protectant.
Sorry for the wall of text.
My one year old car just came back after a month in the shop. The trunk had to be re-sprayed due to a factory paint flaw. The paint work was good but the clear coat buff must have been done by a newbie. The car came back looking like it was buffed with a belt sander. Horrible streaks, haze, tool marks, you name it, my trunk had it. It came back twice looking like crap until on the third try the shop owner finally took the car and took it for a proper buff and it came back looking like new.
He warned me not to wax the car for 2 months due to the clear coat having to cure. I normally have my cars clay-bared and waxed about twice a year by professionals. My normal care involves a two bucket wash with a meguiars wash and wax and I apply a spray wax as I’m drying.
Do I really need to wait the two months or is the shop owner being extra cautious? I’ll hold off on the spray wax during drying but is there a recommended wash soap that doesn’t have wax that I should go out and buy?
Always heed the advice of the refinisher/repairer, they understand the paint system they use and what is required for a good finish (albeit a tad ironic in your case).
Hold off on any product containing a wax/sealant/coating over this period. Your paint and vehicle will be fine.
There are many shampoos to choose from at your local, without knowing where you live, I’m sure you’ll be able to get your hands on Meguiars Gold Class/Soft Wash or equivalent.
Hello - I just bought a 2018 certified pre-owned Black Volkswagen Beetle. This was something I've been wanting a long time and will be a daily driver. I plan to drive it for a while. I've been reading this sub, and a few others, and am trying to figure out if getting a ceramic coating is the way to go.
My current situation:
- Car will be parked outside 365/24/7; sometimes under a tree
- Because of where I live, the car will be exposed to A LOT of direct sunlight, dust, and high winds
- Bird poop and tree sap are also a problem
- I tried using a car cover, but it's a pain to remove every time I need to go somewhere
I'm looking for:
- A solution that offers some sort of protection from the sun, bird poop, and tree sap
- A solution that doesn't require me to put on a car cover
Given what I listed above - Would it be better to get the ceramic coat or just get it waxed once a month? I'm not really a DIY car person but I'm willing to try. However, I live in an apartment complex where we're not allowed to wash our cars in the parking lot.
As you can see, I'm a little lost. Thanks for your answers!
Congrats on getting yourself a dream car.
The best way to care for a vehicle is to frequently maintain it, mechanically and aesthetically. This means washing it as frequently as possible and addressing contamination (bird poop, bugs, fallout, chemicals etc) as soon as possible.
That isn’t always possible for everyone so protection steps up to the plate. Besides additional aesthetic delight, paint protection does what it says on the tin, however, not all are alike and last as long as you may need.
A wax leans more toward aesthetic protection than it does environmental, especially when it comes to clear-on-base paint systems (which yours has). It will need to be applied more frequently to keep up with the degradation from the elements. Some contamination will barely notice the wax at all (bird poop is one).
A synthetic sealant (which includes polymer, ceramic lite and acrylic) is the next step up in protection when it comes to defending against contamination. These will need to be applied less frequently (3+ months depending on the product) but will need to be refreshed frequently.
The next step up is ceramic/titanium/graphene coatings which are designed for people like you in mind; love your vehicle but don’t always have the means of maintaining it frequently in adverse conditions. The benefits here are coatings can last 1-5 years depending on the product and have far superior chemical resistance. They also make maintenance a breeze as the contamination (dirt, tar, bugs, brake dust etc) is less able to bond to the surface.
The top of the line, semi-impervious protection is PPF. It includes scratch resistance which none of the aforementioned products do (to a relatable and quantifiable extent) but is far more expensive rendering it out of the question for the majority of people, especially when considering a full wrap.
My specific recommendation for you would be to look into a ceramic or Graphene coating and implementing your own maintenance plan which involves weekly/fortnightly basic washes performed by yourself (either full water wash/rinseless/waterless) and then a proper maintenance wash every 3-6 months performed either by yourself (with the correct gear) or a trusted professional who understands coating maintenance.
A quality installer will help formulate a maintenance plan tailored to your circumstances and the best will also run you through a similar breakdown as I have above.
Consider the whole exercise a plan to maintain the pleasure and value of the vehicle over the long term.
Speaking specifically to using a car cover, I agree, they’re a great idea in theory but not in daily practice. You could try a marquee if you have a parking spot that will allow it. Perhaps you can convince the person in the next spot along to go halves in a “double garage” with you. I wouldn’t suggest it for on-street parking though :)
Wow! Thank you so much for taking the time to explain all this to me. You're response is the exact kind of guidance I was looking for. I'm off tomorrow and will call around to get some estimates on ceramic/graphene coating(s). I will also be saving your comment for repeated referencing.
MUCH appreciated!!!!!! You have no idea how much this helped!
Ha, glad it covered it for you.
Now you have a good foundation, hunt for a detailer that will recommend a product based on your situation and explain their choice without jargon. Tell them your situation like in the original post and don’t mention ceramic.
A good detailer will be able to justify every choice they make in terms of product, tools and technique, it’s the nature of pursuing perfection. So explaining why they recommended a type of protection will not only be a breeze, it will be enjoyable.
Walk away from any who aren’t happy to provide you with an answer that makes you feel comfortable. It’s a lot of money you’ll be spending after all.
Thinking I want to ceramic coat my almost 1 year old vehicle. What ceramic coating would you recommend for a decent price? In Canada if that matters, local shop has a lot of Adams products they seem to promote, as well as the usual Meguairs etc. Any help appreciated.
A flock of birds shit all over my car. It has been warm in the UK recently, with consecutive 20 degree days. The bird shit was on the paintwork of the car for around 2/3 days before being cleaned off.
I clean my car via a 2 bucket method and go through the following process:
Jet Wash > Snow Foam > Jet wash > 2 Bucket method > Jet Wash > Dry
I usually use various wax/polish methods, as well as cleaning the alloys separately, but in this case I was just attempting to get all of it off.
I have tried:
\- Autoglym Tar Remover
\- Polishing (Hand not machine)
\- Autoglym bird wipes
Has anyone got any ideas what this is? Or how I could get it off? All feedback appreciated.
Soapy watered micro fiber left on the poop for about 20 seconds or more should soften it to clean. rinse afterwards
I'd give it a go with some good old fashioned APC. Relatively strong, spray on, agitate with a detailing brush, leave to soak for a minute and wipe off.
Try a tar remover
Hey all, new to the sub and pretty new to detailing (most I've ever done is hand wash and wax with mothers or nufinish from a can). Ive got a few questions on how to get an older vehicle that wasn't always cared for looking good again. Its a 95 ford, and im wondering what i can use to undo years of neglect, thankfully my paint/clearcoat isn't peeling and rust is minimal, but I have three goals with this truck, and those are cleanliness, gloss finish, and hydrophobic surface on the paint (or if theres a product that helps keep dirt and contaminants from sticking that'd be good too). Also, I desperately need a product that will restore the shine to old metal, small amount of chrome and the rest is mostly just polished aluminum I believe. Aside from that any small tips you can give would be appreciated, maybe things that get overlooked often or whatever you think will be helpful to me on my way to becoming a neat freak about my vehicle.
CRYSTAL BLACK PEARL honda 3d one or m205?
I just purchased a new car and the paint is pretty bad from the dealer, water spots, swirls and light scratches I bought a Griots garage DA 6" I just have no idea where to start, with pads and if I should do a 1 step or try 105/205
If your car is brand new I don’t think you’d want to go as far as m105. I think you’d be okay with m205 and then some wax/sealant. You could also go with an all-in-one polish and sealant product like HD Speed or Turtle Wax Polish & Wax. I recently used the turtle wax polish & wax on my 2018 civic and got amazing results. Took out all of the swirls and light scratches completely. I used the griots DA as well. Benefit of an all in one would be you would only have to go over your car once and it’ll be polished and protected. Going with a product like m205, you’ll have to go over the car once for the polish and another for the protection. Just my 2 cents!
Edit: adding info about pads. I went with a 5” backing plate and 5.5” lake country flat pads. I used three white pads and comfortably got around the car with the turtle wax product.
When compounding before with a product like m105, I noticed that the product dusted a lot faster as the pads got dirty a lot quicker. I used maybe 5-6 orange pads just to get around the car.
Whats the protection duration for just the turtle wax polish and what kind of pads did you use?
Added the pad info in my previous comment.
I actually doubled down on protection. I let the polish & wax cure for 24 hours and added a layer of the turtle wax ceramic spray coating on top. It’s been about 2 months and water still beads up like when I first applied the spray. I do plan on just using the spray coating once every 3-4 months to top off the protection.
Hate to sound like I’m trying to sell you the new turtle wax stuff but I just picked up those two products to try them out since they’re relatively inexpensive and the results are amazing. The ceramic spray states protection of up to 6 months, but since it’s so easy to apply (spray on lightly, spread, and wipe off) I don’t mine just adding another layer every couple of months.
Awesome, thanks a lot I was already looking at the hybrid solutions line and for the price, it's worth a try
I bought my car recently, used, and the windshield appears to have a film that shows up in the rain when the wipers clear the windshield.
What should I do to get rid of that film? Does anyone have any speculation what the film might be? My estimate is a wax that the dealership applied, carelessly, when detailing to make the car look as shiny as possible.
It could also be road film. When it rains, the oils from car resurface and get kicked up by the wheels.
I use to have that problem. To fix it, I compounded my windshield just to clean it up and then I put a windshield coating on it. Now a simple glass cleaner takes care of the road film
It’s possible. I just bought it, so I don’t know what condition it was in exactly before I did. It appears to be in otherwise flawless condition, sans some usual tiny spots on the paint in the expected places.
I've noticed that film before and it absolutely drives me mad. Had the problem between two cars and multiple different wipers. My hypothesis is that my wiper fluid is leaving some sort of residue that doesn't get removed by the wiper blades (I use the orange Rain-X wiper fluid). Makes is nigh impossible to drive during the night because every streetlight illuminates my windshield.
I recommend cleaning your windshield with rinseless wash (I use Ultima Waterless Wash) and that should get rid of it for now. Problem seems to be exacerbated with Rain-X 2-in-1 windshield cleaner just FYI (probably because 2-in-1 products are memes).
Interesting. I haven’t had to use my washer fluid yet, and I don’t know what’s in there because they filled it at the dealership.
I tried with a standard glass cleaner and it is **maybe** a bit better, but I’ll pick up some wash and try it.
They’re brand new blades. It’s not retained water, it’s definitely a residue.
Use the APC with a magic eraser, wipe the wipers with them too
So I screwed up and scrubbed a little too hard trying to get some bird droppings off my hood and marred the finish.
Is there any way to just work on that one specific spot (about 4 square inches, max)?
Hand polish it, though I wouldn't expect much of a result without a machine.
So I guess I'll break down and get a HF polisher. There's three other vehicles in my driveway that need paint correction :(
The HF polisher is cheaper than the medical treatment for the impending shoulder injury from polishing all that by hand. Modern clear doesn't really get results by hand.
My already torn shoulder labrums thank you!
Going to ceramic coat car with cquartz 3.0.
How important is it to avoid application to external rubber seals?
I will not be buying an additional ceramic coating for trim and wonder if leftover Cquartz is okay to use?
Seals are a tricky beast as they come in many forms on your vehicle: EPDM (door seals), thermoplastic elastomer (matts, gear boots, flanges), silicone (hoses, sunroof seals) and thermoplastic olefin (trim, mouldings, window channels).
Each seal is fit for purpose and has different properties from each other, which means not all can be treated in the same way, but all need to be cleaned appropriately.
Some like EPDM require a simple wipe clean with a mild APC.
Window seals are typically a more porous material, especially on older vehicles so require a deep cleaning. APC or a dedicated rubber cleaner and a stiff brush (like a medium grade toothbrush or boars hair detailing brush) will dislodge the grime without damaging the substrate. Be careful of surrounding paintwork and plastics and be gentle, you don’t want to change the texture of the seal.
Plastics also require cleaning of any previously applied dressings and sealants, spray with APC and agitate throughly with a detailing brush, a section at a time.
After cleaning any part, throughly rinse with water and wipe with a microfiber. Never let chemicals run down the paint while you detail so be sure to use a microfiber to catch any overspray and runs while you apply a cleaner or pre-wet surrounding substrates to reduce the chance of damage.
Dedicated plastic and wheel coatings exist which typically feature greater durability for textured parts and a higher heat tolerance for wheels and brake components but aren’t essential.
Any ceramic, titanium or graphene coating will do the job well, however, some components may not display much of a change/improvement like EPDM and silicone.
Final advice, do a small test section of each type of seal/plastic before digging in.
Im looking for a wheel cleaner, what is recommended iron remover?
I was using Meguiars Ultimate Wheel Cleaner
However, its quite expensive and runs out quickly.
Wheel cleaner only if they're very dirty and contaminated, if they're cleaned regularly then your normal car soap is fine
I don’t know if this is exactly auto detailing, but you guys would probably know.
The badge on the back on my 2000 TT is falling off, what’s the right way to remove and re-attach it without damaging the paint?
Use dental floss behind it to "saw" the old adhesive off. Use Goo Gone to remove the leftover chunks of adhesive. Apply 3M trim tape to the back of the emblem and stick it back on.
Maybe heat gun to loosen adhesive, gently pull off. Clean area with adhesive remover like googone. Use emblem adhesive to reapply? YT prob has a good video.
How do you all wash your microfibers? I have been advised in the past not to machine wash because of potentially added fabric softener in detergent and in residue left behinfld by dryer sheets. Apparently this is why they become streaky. Plus, chemicals the towels soak up have definitely taken a part in ruining a washing machine in the past. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
I have some surface rust that I’m not sure how to deal with. If it were a big hunk of unpainted iron I would wire brush / sand then use ospho and paint, but some of it is already painted and I don’t know if I should strip all the paint and go with that plan.
Also some surface rust under the rear bumper, terrible picture but it’s splotchy pattern on chrome and I don’t wait to damage what’s left of the chrome.
Advice or good resources? Thanks!!
For the chrome tow ball, use vinegar and tin foil (kitchen variety is fine). Fold it into a little pad you can manipulate around the ball, dip the foil in vinegar and rub over the surface like you would sandpaper.
As for the goose neck, it looks like a tremendous amount of paint is missing, it’s best to strip, brush/sand/grind and repaint. Same for the mounting fixture if you’re able to remove it from the vehicle.
\- What microfiber towels do you guys recommended for the garry dean method on a college student budget?(Washing and drying)
\- Is there any harm in using an old windex bottle as my spray bottle for the presoak?
The Costco pack of microfiber towels. I think it’s 36 towels for like 20 bucks.
Make sure to really rinse out the windex bottle several times with water and you should be fine.
Happy Monday Lads! Just wanted to share my experience with trying to do a very simple pain correction by hand and am hoping to get a better idea of why it didn’t go so well.
Decided to use meguiars compound and polish to take care of the small scratches that appear under light, but unfortunately it seems like I’ll need something more comprehensive to do so.
After using compound I polished the car by hand but scratches remained. I’m curious if this due to the polish not being aggressive enough, my pads (which are just the basic pads you can find at any auto parts store), or my hands not being able to replicate the speed and consistency of a DA. Maybe it’s a combination of the three?
It was definitely a good experience to get a feel for how compound and polish works, but it seems like the only way to do this right is to get a DA with some proper pads and compound.
Any sort of insight or advice is welcome. The paint correction rabbit hole is a deep one and I don’t want to get overwhelmed and give up.
I’ve also determine that it probably makes more sense to fill all rock chips and such before even thinking about doing a paint correction, so I’ll likely get some paint and clear coat on order to get started on that.
If you’re trying to get perfect paint under a light then your definitely going to need a polisher. I’d recommend the Griots Garage 6” to start.
Much appreciated! I was going to CC the car afterwards but just wasn’t happy enough with the results to commit to coating it. I’ve heard good things about the Griots polisher for causal the casual detailer and will definitely look at purchasing one.
Any thoughts on how it stacks up to offerings from Rupe’s or other brands?
I use a Griots professionally and it is great. Unless you polish day in day out you don’t need to spend money on a Rupes, the main factor being decreased vibration (which takes a toll on your hands/arms).
Yeah NVH isn’t a huge concern because nearly anything I better than using my arms lol!
When a Rupes breaks after one year its going to cost for them to fix, a Griots will be free due to a lifetime warranty.
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