Heat up from one side use a solder sucker on the other


Also add more solder so you can get good contact with the iron so you can melt it all then suck it out.


These gents are spot on. Add flux, more solder, heat up the solder, and go at it with a solder sucker.


Also don’t be shy with the flux. DROWN IT.


Don't forget to use lots of rubbing alcohol and a brush to clean everything afterward.


You can generally leave rosin flux behind if it's a non-critical assembly. Easy clean is really the only flux you absolutely have to remove even on non-critical assemblies because it will absolutely destroy the board.


I've had oxidation issues (albeit after years) with rosin flux, a good clean is worth the extra minute.


rubbing alcohol may leave organic residues when it evaporates, better use pure IPA instead


99% is available in most pharmacies fairly inexpensive. But keep the cap tight and don't leave it open as IPA is hygroscopic so it will absorb moisture from the air.


Agree with all haha


And as Louis Rossmann said: There is never too much flux.


Difference between some who knows how to solder and doesn't is FLUX


I used to think so also. But I recently had a board come to me for repair that the owner and his friend had tried to repair first. They were not afraid of using too much flux. I could barely see some parts of the board for all the dark brown flux laying thick all over the PCB.


I bought myself a cheap soldering iron and solder sucker in one. I’m still surprised how well this thing for 11 bucks works. So if you intend to desolder more than one PCB I would advise anybody to try the cheap solution. Of course doesn’t beat a real „Weller“ or similar desoldering station but that’s not the point here.


I also have a ["Heated Desoldering Pump"](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/ZD-211-Heated-Desoldering-Pump-ZD-211-30-W/dp/B006TAXH5K) and it works a lot better than a soldering iron, a normal solder pump and a wobbly "third hand" to hold the PCB.


Does it? It looks a lot like those [inexpensive metal solder suckers](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KRAAG) that are terrible. I personally prefer [the big blue ones](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQAIXEY/) that look like some weird sex toy. Show me one of those with an integrated iron and I'm sold.


The one I mentioned is about 26cm overall (perhaps 8cm usable piston) with 2cm diameter, so it's a lot smaller than your big blue one. I only have your inexpensive one as a comparison, so I'm afraid I'm not a good salesman for the heated pump.


Heh, I just bought a ham radio mystery box for $10. Included in it was this big blue solder sucker, I'm going to give it a try based on your recommendation. I've got a vacuum system but sometimes it's just too much of a pain for a quick de-soldering job. I've had good luck with wick, but it has to be good wick. Even then some boards just give me trouble. I'll try this one next.


I have only just recently come to appreciate wick. I have long been a fan of solder suckers and a hater of wick but I had a project that was giving me so much trouble and wick saved me. I bought one of those small anodized aluminum solder suckers and suddenly realized why solder suckers have a bad name. My first love was the big blue dildo looking solder sucker and I just bought my second in 20 years after my first gave up the ghost.


I have this same one except it's got the U.S. plug. I love it. Highly recommend it for THT de-soldering.


Not a good idea if you have a multilayer gp/power board. The reason your soldering iron "works" is because it's too hot (+600F) and does melt the excess solder making fairly easy to remove. But with very dense (multilayer and high density with very fine traces) boards you will destroy (lift up) traces and damage vias/smd components etc. An expensive soldering station will regulate the tip temperature (350F) to within a degree so it can deliver the manufacturer's specification temperature limit without "overheating" the surrounding area and the target area. Had to learn this the hard way reworking multilayer boards.


Good point. Should really measure at one time the tip temperature of my „EPH-40“. For multilayer boards of course I would use my preheater to speed up the desoldering time. Until now only used the EPH-40 on some 1-layer FR2 and 2-layer FR4 boards.


Or you could heat the pad and use a wooden toothpick to remove the solder from the hole.


If no solder sucker, add more solder, heat n blow at it real hard


Trim the wick. You're losing a lot of heat to the rest of the wick that isn't going where you want. Also, someone else mentioned adding solder, and that will definitely help. It's counterintuitive, but if you add solder to the holes then it makes it easier for the wick to heat up the whole hole and suck out all of the solder at once.


Often the solder already present on a board is old, oxidized and has low "solderability" and does not reach a liquid state as expected. Many mass produced consumer boards use lead-free solder, also. This all means that old solder will wick poorly and will easily remain in those through-hole barrels. If one persists in trying to remove the solder, more heat and possibly unintended downward pressure from the tip could cause the annular rings of the barrels to weaken and fall off. As one person mentioned, those holes are not plated through hole (PTH) barrels which would be relatively strong. Instead, those are unsupported through holes and relatively easy to damage. Adding more solder {and of course flux) will work better, after trimming the solder wick so that you're wicking with fresh braid.


[Try the Slap Method](https://youtu.be/DQC7LvAcqpc)


No joke. Those Nano "pads" aren't pads, they're spool-shaped vias with pads on both sides. The solder can get pretty deep in the hole and it's tough getting enough heat in there without cooking the board. My technique was: 1) Solder wick 2) Vacuum the remaining ones 3) Flick/slap the few difficult remaining ones. Thorough cleaning isn't that necessary if you're planning to solder wires but if you want to insert a new header then the to be almost perfectly clean or they'll be too small.


That's super neat! I could never get away with this at work, though... solder debris creates FOD, which is a huge thing to avoid in aerospace.


How can she slap. All jokes aside the slap method does work


Trim off all that solder saturated wick. It acts as a heatsink so you don't get heat quick enough were you need it. Slow heating can burn off the flux before the solder melts. Speaking of flux, a generous application of liquid flux helps, especially with cheap wick.


Add solder, heat it and then (while heat) make a quick single shake with the hand you are holding the board. Hitting the desk with the hand makes it easier.


Yup this is my favorite caveman way of solving this problem. I like to use a pair of hemostats (foreceps) to grip the board and let you give it a firm whack onto a table. Works more reliably than wick, with less chance of overheating the board.


I love forceps! I also recommend people to use locking carmaults. It's been a game changer.


My trick… not for everyone…. Flux and heat the through hole … grip the board between fingers… lightly slam fingers holding the board on table… poor man’s solder sucker. Fingers hit table… not the board.


Solder pumps/suckers are useful for getting it put of the holes


Looks like that desoldering wick is working fine, you really need to trim off the used bits.


Bad quality wick, probably. Get one from mouser or digikey.


For the longest time I thought solder wick just never worked until I found out that all the wick I had tried was terrible. The most reliable stuff I've used has been Quick Braid, if anyone's looking for recommendations


A long time ago I thought the same with solder. How wrong I was. I just thought I was shit at soldering. Then realised I was not using the right quality.


Heat the solder, then quickly blow it out


Solder sucker or you'll burn that board. You actually WANT to leave some around the holes while clearing the center. You can use a little glass dropper in a pinch lol. Put the sucker on one side, then heat up the solder from the other. When it turns liquid suck it through and you're done.


Might seem dumb, but when this happens I usually fill the pad with solder again, hold the iron on it for a while until I see the melted solder on the other side, then use Flux and desoldering wick. Probably should turn down the temperature so you don't accidentally burn the pad off.


I saturate the wick in flux and never have an issue.


I usually solder in header pins. It just makes prototyping easier. I like the stackable ones with the 1inch long pins so I can put it into a breadboard or plug wires into it. That’s Just how I roll


I use a dental probe, stick it on one side and heat on another, then slightly turn after the solder solidifies but also your flux doesn't seem to work well on the wick to me, try something more active maybe (over D3 it works, but over D10 it just smeared over the copper)


Use the solder vacuum pump. Apply some flux, bit of solder, then suck it out


I use a de-soldering needle, far easier, just select the correct size, put the needle in and heat it up with the iron, it will eventually get hot enough to melt and the needle pushes through and the solder cant stick to it. I use these ones. [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JF9BJCY](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JF9BJCY) this video shows how to use them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlkebIBpw80


I don't know why people love that desoldering wick so much. I never used it. Solder sucker is a much better solution (once you find one that works reliably).


There are many proper ways but I generally use disposable wooden toothpicks. I just turn on the soldering iron, heat up the solder until it melts (you can always add more if there is not enough of it for good thermal contact) and quickly shove the toothpick from the other side all the way. Then I don't even remove the solder drop but leave it there for later so when I need to put a wire or pin into the hole I can just insert it into the hole, add some flux and get it soldered straight away. It is kinda a quick and dirty way of doing it but it works every time.


No solder sucker? Heat from rear then blow really hard (not covid safe) Heat from rear while holding between thumb and forefinger, once properly hot, lift hand 6” and slam the heel of your hand on the table while holding the pcb horizontal (danger of RSI) You may find you’ve punched a hole, but the solder is still thick in the sides of the hole, then try solder wick. If it still has trouble use /extra solder/ to introduce more flux, don’t heat for too long.


my personal trick that works most of the time: heat up and blow strongly with your mouth


Solder sucks, like many here have said


Use wood alloy, fill them up with it and than grab it with the wick, the solder will be melting at a lower temperature and thus remove easily


Do recommend a birch/oak eutectic mix? Or are you a yew user?


I mean this https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood%27s\_metal


Broken link, but Wood's Metal, got it.


if you want a bad solution, I use a metal prick to poke the solder out while heading the metal ring


I find that a length of solid wire, heated and then run through the hole will pull a lit of it out.


I like to just heat the solder up and ever so gently bonk the whole thing on the table. The molten solder is going to fly off and splatter on the table, to don't do it on your knees, but that would take a special kind a special. If you are afraid you will damage the board, just don't bonk it too hard, or if you just whip it fast enough molten solder will probably leave. WARNING: engage safety squint or wear eye protection like a civilized person


Get yourself a soldapullt. All other solder suckers are mere shadows of the soldapullt's power.


The only tools a tech needs (basic) are 92-99% IPA, Stiff Tooth Brush, Soft Brass Brush, Needle Nose Tweezers, Ceramic core solder pen, Button Press spring loaded solder sucker, solder wick, solder resin, and very thin resin core tin solder. More advanced kits might include a hot air rework tool and liquid or jelly type flux. To clean a oxidized pad you can use the brass brush and IPA to clean an oil, paint, and light oxidation. Next clean the tip of your solder pen. Apply heat to the pad or thru hole you are trying to clean, add fresh solder to it. Consider that the solder contains flux that will help with the oxidation. But the longer the pad is heated the more flux will burn off. A dab of fresh solder from time to time can help. For clearing thru holes. Do this on both sides if clearing a hole. You should now have a nice shinny bubble on both sides. Lock the PCB into a vice or a PCB build tool. make sure the holes you are trying to clear is up and away from edges or surfaces that will impair your hands or tools. Make sure that your mount is NOT pressing into switches, or any small SMD parts that will break off or get crushed. In one hand ready the sucker tool. Make sure the spring is compressed. Take up the solder pen in the other hand, and clean the tip. Gently apply the solder pen to one side of the board, allowing the tip to melt into the solder liquefy both sides. Do not force the pen into the hole, it needs to be loose. Quickly and gently align the tip of the suction tool with the through hole and press the button. Thats it. Remove the heat and the sucker. Repeat for any other holes to be cleared. It is critical to be gentle and quick so as to not damage the pad or the rings. Too much heat, or too much rough housing will cause them to separate from the PCB. If you are having to force the solder pen into the solder to melt it, you are fighting oxidation. Clean your tip often. You should NEVER have to apply much of any pressure to solder on any project.


The wick is too heavy. It's sucking all the heat away. A braid about the width of the pads gets used up faster, but doable with a 35w iron. What level power are you using?


Chip Quik (https://youtu.be/7kyaz4Zrd78) - it's main purpose is removing SMD with lots of pads but I will work fine for THT.


Heat it up, add some fresh solder and flux, when it is all melted quickly poke a hole through with a wooden toothpick. Pull the toothpick out before it burns. If the tip of your soldering iron is fine enough to go through the holes, you can use that instead. When the tip is showing out the other side, add a drop of flux, scrap the excess solder away, then quickly pull the tip out.


I clip small boards to the helping hands, and blast it out with hot air gun, soldering tip, and sometimes a blast of can of air. Try loading the wick up with more flux and using more heat on it.


Throw it in the dishwasher


As others have suggested, a solder sucker, wick, flux, slap method... All work well but I've had *really* good results with heating up the solder with an iron and then giving it a little blast of compressed air. Either from a "can of air" or a legit compressor with a nozzle attachment, both work well.


Wick works really well. But I can tell you the wick you are using is way too big for that.


You can just use chip quik low-melting point solder -- it's specifically used for desoldering parts, and I find it also works well to remove solder from through holes like this. Add lots of flux, and dab with the iron and copper wik. The stuff makes desoldering so easy and it will change your life.


When through holes are being tough like that I try to re-apply a ball of solder to the hole, and make sure I heat up the solder enough for it all to melt. Then I hit it again with a clean wick. If I'm really having trouble I hit the other side with a solder sucker as others have said, but that doesn't work that well for me for some reason.


This one trick I learned from my father- you can heat it up with soldering iron and then poke the hole with a toothpick or sharpened matchstick.




Buy that sucky thingy. It looks like a pen. Love that sucker for this kinda job


How to post something here if the bot thinks you need to post on a different page? 😑


Heat the hole and while the iron is still on the pad, tap the board on the bench. The molten solder falls very easily. Do this very carefully as there is a chance of breaking something on other side. I have been doing this on silicone rubber mat not on a hard surface. But I wouldn't recommend this.


When in doubt, apply more flux. Solder wick should clean those fine with extra flux.


That wick is double the width for what I would choose to use for those holes. Also very important to cut away 95% of the old solder from the wick. It's a little helpful to leave a teeny bit right at the end. Also you can cut the wick into smaller lengths, pieces about 10-15mm and use tweezers to hold it. Using as you've done the wick has a high thermal mass and all the heat from your iron is pouring into the wick and the old solder and not the solder in the joint. If you're not making enough contact with the old solder than get some solder wire and add more solder before removing(wicking). You need a direct path for the heat from iron to get into the solder in the hole and for that liquid solder to move into the wick.


Should the reset button look like this? :o


Heat it up and gently smash it on the desk.


Just heat it up 330 tip temp and add some flux the heat up the solder u want to remove and smack the board on table board will stop solder won't!


in my experience (and i've reused/repurposed quite a few nano's) reworking these pads many times or aggressively leads to failure i.e. that pad will no longer make electrical contact with its trace and/or will not accept new solder... i've had the most success with leaving existing solder, and simply attaching any new desired connections by soldering small wires (20 awg or thinner, 18 is difficult) directly to the pads.


thinner wick will work better...much better


WTF people? Just use a toothpick to clear the hole.


Add solder when the old stuff isn't moving. It helps heat the old stuff and wets it when you get back to removal. I solder leaded at about 700F usually. Lead-free may need a higher (?), but definitely requires more patience. Through-holes do better with a solder sucker/vacuum desolderer. Someone shared the slap method, and if you clean up after you're done, it's a really cool method. If you're gonna use braid, it's still possible but one trick I use to get in the holes is trim your waste on the braid, at a slight angle, then kinda curl the braid up a little like a taco and use the iron to get in the crevices of the barrel.


Heat and knock it of with a swift tap on something. Gravity will do it for you.


Wick and flux is the first tier A spring loaded solder sucker is the second tier A desoldering station is the third tier Each tier gets more expensive as for temperature I usually use high temp for as small as time as possible I usually use 750f


Add more solder. Heat it up with flux on one side and suck it out the other. I feel spoiled ever since I got my desoldering tool. Basically a heated solder sucker. Works wonders. If you do much desoldering I highly recommend it, especially for through hole. You have to be careful with small SMDs not to suck them up.


Try sliding desoldering wick.


I know this will sound really sketchy, but to unblock the holes that a blocked up with solder, I sometimes just use a Dremel-type tool with a really small drill bit to drill out the solder blockage. I haven't ever damaged a board by doing this.


Soak in water for about 5 mins before trying again 👍